Ancient Coin Cleaning And Restoration

Photographing Coins In An Effective Way

2011-12-21T11:29:00.003-06:00

In this article we will talk about our coin's background or as an artist what I call negative space. There are a few simple color tips I will share with you and perhaps you will be somewhat enlightened and better able to create good negative space choices that will enhance your coin photos.

I am sure most know about warm and cool colors. Warm colors lie on the red and yellow side of the color spectrum. Conversely, we find cool colors on the blue and green side of the spectrum. I could expound on the statement I just made endlessly but that is not our objective. When photographing our coins we need know that our primary objective is to focus on the coin and our enabling objective is to present the coin in the most pleasing way we can. The coin is our central subject matter. The negative area should be highly secondary to presenting our coin in the best environment possible.

Warm colors advance and are very difficult to use effectively in a negative area. The warm colors distract from our coin, our central subject matter, so remember we are interested in the coin presentation and not a handsome negative area. Warm colors will almost always dominate our coin composition.

Cool colors recede and are the easiest to work with when presenting a coin. However, this depends on the value and intensity of the color I choose. Please observe the pics you see above and you will find that I purposefully included what I consider to be both good and bad color choices. Please understand that I am not saying a particular color is not "pretty." I am simply saying there is a consummate way in which we can best present our coin. We can use pretty colors in our landscape compositions, etc.

We will now move on to white and black. White is the presence of all colors and black is the absence of all colors. After spending a few years photographing coins I think I prefer white as opposed to black. The black and white thing is very personal and there is no right or wrong, simply a matter of preference.

I would like for you to perform the following exercise. Cut a square hole roughly the size of one of the coins you see posted above. Center the hole in a sheet of your copy paper. Now move the coin from pic to pic and concentrate on what you are seeing. Are you seeing the coin or are you looking at the negative area. Find the pic you like best. REMEMBER, we are interesting in diminishing the pictorial value of the negative area.

If the space in and around the coin is our negative area is negative space then what do I call the coin space? I call the coin the positive space. That is the object we want the viewer to see in and above all else. Once more, we are not speaking of pretty; we are speaking of effective coin presentation.

I hope this will help with your coin compositions and presentations. I am always ready and eager to help others when and if I can. Please feel free to ask whatever you like and I will try to help. One quick thing, never use texture in your negative space. Texture clutters and moves the eye away from the coin.. Merry Christmas and God Bless.. Jerry..

"TEST CUT" What And Why?

2011-12-03T12:34:00.003-06:00

"Test Cut" What and Why? Apparently counterfeit coins have been around since ancient times and one of the most common methods of counterfeiting was to coat a bronze or copper coin with a silver wash. The answer to counterfeit or not was for the potential recipient of a questionable coin was very often a test cut.

The test cut was a readily easy method to expose the "innards" of the coin and reveal what was beneath the coin's surface. Some would scratch the coin's surface while some would cut a large gash as we often see in ancient silver coins. I have wondered what transpired if the coin was proven to be counterfeit.

Was the owner of the coin hauled off to prison? Was there a penalty for owning said coin? Perhaps our ancient coin scholars will be able to enlighten us. I suspect the cut most often revealed a good coin but sadly for many, we have inherited the products of the mistrust of our ancestors.

As I search for coins to add to my collection, I have observed that the Athenian Owl appears to be the coin most often attacked. I am sure there is a reason why the Athenian Owl was so mistrusted. If my observation is correct, I think our coin scholars will step forward and explain.

I recently ordered quite a few test cut coins and must admit I find the coins very interesting or at least I find the psychology of the test cut interesting. I am awaiting arrival of my coins and will own for the first time a test cut coin. I really want to hear from all who are willing to share. Post to my blog and others will be able to read your opinions.. Thank you and Merry Christmas.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Coin Enthusiasts: Locate Stolen Laptop

2011-11-26T13:00:00.002-06:00

A stolen laptop is just one thief away. We all know the price of laptops and even more the personal data we could potentially lose would be a nightmare. With all this in mind PreyProject.com has created a freeware program that can help us track a stolen computer.

I have read very good reviews about Prey and I suspect many individuals will be adding the program to their computers. In essence, Prey sends out timed reports from a missing or stolen laptop, containing information on the laptop's status and location. Network and wi-fi information is also provided. If really fortunate, you may capture a pic of the thief!

Remember, this is all free and installation is a piece of cake. In addition, Prey is open source, which leaves open the possibility of better things to come. If you decide to give Prey a shot, please let me know what you think. I would love to see reviews from our ancient coin enthusiasts.

Prey had the following to say about their program. "Prey is a lightweight application that will help you track and find your laptop if it is ever stolen. It works with all operating systems and not only is it Open Source but it is also completely free." I Pray you had a great holiday and I Pray you have a Merry Christmas.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Which Coin Are You Buying

2011-11-11T15:25:00.003-06:00

Have you ever bought a coin and were surprised when the coin arrived? The visual appearance was pretty much unlike what you thought you were buying? Perhaps the coin you bought had been post-edited or Photo Shopped. Photo Shopping is a method employed by a seller to enhance the coin and make it look better on the web than the coin actually looks in hand. I have found this to be a very common practice and less than ethical in my opinion.

Take a look at the photos above to see what I speak of. The photos on top are the way the coin really looks in hand. I think the bottom photos make the coin look much better. I simply took the coin into PS and dropped the values a couple of clicks. As a result, I have a much better looking coin than the coin in hand. There are many vendors out there who have much more expertise than I do when using Photo Shop and they can make a poor quality coin look very fine.

With a modicum of effort I have found that I can easily hide a coin's pitting, change the coin's color, or even repair a broken or chipped coin using PS or some other photo editor. Is this a common practice? I can only say I know the problem is there to some degree.

There are preventative steps that can be taken to help you when dealing with an unscrupulous dealer. Over the years I have gotten to know my dealers and I only encounter the problem I allude to on rare occasions. Get to know your dealers and keep a list of the good and the bad. Don't be shy, ask the dealer if the coin is as represented. Ask the dealer if the coin has been touched up using any kind of post processing program.

I think the best vendor to deal with is one who will unconditionally accept returned coins if the buyer is unhappy with his or her purchase. There are many ethical dealers who will accept returned coins so one can be selective when making a coin purchase. Again, keep a list of honest dealers you buy from as I do.

I hope my article enlightens you and makes you more aware of a problem that exists within our ancient coin community. Allow me to reinforce what I said earlier. I find most dealers to be highly ethical and I have found the unethical dealers to be small part of ancient coins. Don't be afraid to ask the questions you need to ask and you will be a much happier ancient coin collector.. Have a wonderful Thanks giving and God Bless..

Ancient Coins: Save Money

2011-10-17T18:27:00.003-05:00

Perhaps I should have said save money on accessories. I was about to run out of coin envelopes so I shopped for the best prices on the small manila envelopes and was surprised at the escalated prices. I did locate one vendor online who had the best price. I have an Office Depot right down the street so I decided to see what they had in the store.

The in store price were a few bucks more than my online source and I told the salesman I had found them cheaper online. He asked for the source, looked it up and matched the price. I assume this is true with other items also. This may not be a big deal to many but with the economy as it is, I am always happy to save about four bucks.

I think I will try this with other items also. I hope I save you a few bucks. Please let me know. By the way, I bought 500 2 1/4" X 3 1/2" Kraft 28 pound envelopes for $17.64 including 7% Mississippi sales tax. I also bought the sealable at this price.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Cleo VII: Do You Prefer This Or This?

2011-10-13T13:58:00.010-05:00

I recently bought a group of uncleaned coins from an Ancient Peddler member. As you can see from the photo above left, I felt I was taking a chance but I decided to take the dive anyway. I have been Zapping coins for close to ten years using techniques I have developed and I thought I saw something in the photo the vendor provided. I am very pleased with the results I get and I am very pleased with the results of this Zap.

In the middle pic you see the obverse after the Zap. The pic on the right depicts the reverse of the coins subsequent to the Zap. It took a bit of Zapping and prodding to reach the coins' surfaces. I keep plenty of Bamboo Skewers handy to aid me in removing the crud as I Zap. One quick thing. Click on pic to enlarge.

My question to my Anti-Zapping friends is as follows: Would you prefer to own the coins on the left or would you prefer to own the coins on the right. I have been under the weather but I am always happy to talk with anyone about my Zapping. If you have questions, observations or cruddy coins for sale I would love to hear from you. I am too old to engage in bickering and I have no interest either so I will not go that route.. May God Bless us and our Nation.. Jerry..

Spruce Up Your Ancient Coin Photos

2011-09-10T19:09:00.011-05:00

I have an old copy of Adobe PhotoShop 7 and I know just enough about PS 7 to help with a few issues. For the past few days I have busied myself playing with PS tools with which I am not familiar. I have surprised myself and I suggest you do the same if you are a PS novice as I am.

The photograph you see above is the product of trial and effort. I created plenty of photo copies and began making an effort to learn something new about each tool. Those of you who know me know that I dislike linear programs very much. In spite of this I am quite pleased with what I have accomplished.

Most of all, I have learned some things about PS I would not have known otherwise. I played with tools I had never used and I tried new settings I had never used. Give it a shot and surprise yourself as I did.. God Bless.. Jerry

Do You Know Billon About Your Coins?

2011-07-28T13:15:00.002-05:00

I am opening the floor for a discussion about ancient billon coins. I have never really gotten around to learning my billon so after a bit of reading I have the following information. I think we will get varying responses to what billon is and is not. That is fine. Let us know what you think, please.

I have read where some say billon coins contain a high content of either gold or silver. This is contrary to what I found. Allow me to back up and state that billon coins have been around a long time and we find billon coins created by the Greeks and we find billon coins still being produced in the Middle Ages.

OK, back to billon and metal content. The best I can tell billon is an alloy of either gold or silver with a very high percentage of a base metal such as copper. However, I saw where one source indicated a billon coin to have "about one-fifth silver to four-fifths copper." My thesis is that billon varied greatly from era to era and mint to mint.

A good gentleman, Tony Clayton, in "Metals Used in Coins and Medals" has stated that billon is a silver alloy with more that half copper content.
From the nominal amount I have shared we can already see we may be all over the place with our "billon theories" and what a billon coin really is.
I look forward to responses and I hope you will share your opinion.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Fast Track To Good And Better Coin Photos

2011-03-14T14:52:00.004-05:00

I am sharing my basic coin photography setup for good and quick coin photos. I realize you will not have the same photography items as I have but I think the photograph and article will steer you in the proper direction.

First of all, I will share a few things that are a given for obtaining highly decent coin photographs. Look at the photograph you see above and you will see more than the two lights I use in my basic setup. Focus on the two lights on either side of the inverted "tea container." You will see two flex-arm lights. These are the two lights I use in this exercise. I use fluorescent bulbs in the 5000 to 6500 Kelvin range.

I find that my cameras will easily adjust to these K numbers. Many of the fluorescent bulbs are around 2500 K and you want to avoid these bulbs when using for coin photography. Home Depot used to have a 5500 K bulb and that is one of the numbers I like. I assume they still carry the 5500. WalMart also has a good selection of fluorescent bulbs.

Don't depend on the "daylight" fluorescent to be a good bulb for coin photography. Daylights are often too far towards the yellow side of the spectrum and yellow is very difficult to work around when trying to balance your lighting. You should find the Kelvin designation on either the bulb or the container. If I don't find a K designation I then assume the bulb is in the 2500 K range and I don't buy.

When I buy bulbs I make sure I write the K number on the bulb base before tossing the cardboard container. I use 10 to 15 watt bulbs. However, I see no reason not to use the 25-watt bulbs. Next I need to explain the plastic container before moving on.

I discovered the effective application of the tea container a couple years ago and I use the term tea container very loosely. The container is a two-quart translucent or frosted container. The container admits light but filters as it does thus dispersing and softening the light as the light bounces around the inside of the container.

Back to the flex-arm lights. One could use very inexpensive goose neck lamps just as well as the lights you see I am using. Our objective is to enable us to place the lights where we need them so use whatever works for you. My setup looks a bit cluttered but that is the way I work. Fortunately you cannot see the remainder of my art/coin studio!

The frosted container (Sterilite brand) can be found at WalMart for less than three dollars. I often see the containers at Dollar Stores for about the same price. The containner is a two quart container size. The following is very important so please follow my directions. You will need to cut the entire bottom out of the container. As I recall I used an Xacto knife and Xacto knives can very dangerous!

If there is any question as to your ability, please ask a skilled person to cut the bottom for you. There is more than one way to cut the bottom from the container. In the photograph above you will see I have my lens centered over the upside down container. Remember I have cut the bottom out of the container. When using my setup I place my coin on a 1" length dowel about 3/8" in diameter. I keep plenty of dowels of various lengths and diameters handy and use the proper height and diameter as the coins demand.

I have no idea what kind of camera you use but I see no reason why one cannot use any digital with a macro setting. A shutter release timer is great to use. The delay timer eliminates the need to grasp the camera which could result in "camera shake." You also need to be able to adjust your white balance. Often the normal daylight setting is fine when using the Kelvin I have suggested.

If you do use the setup I am suggesting, please spend lots of time moving the lights around until you find what works for you. This setup is very forgiving and works wonderfully well once you learn how to properly disperse your lighting. Move the lights up and down and in and out as you practice. Remember, the lights do not need be at the same level. For example one light may be higher on one side than the other in order to adjust your lighting. We now need to practice, practice and practice some more. The more coins you photograph and the more you experiment with your lighting the better coin photographer you will be.

I have shared what I consider to be the most expeditious method for getting good photo images. This is for Newbies but not Newbies only. I have gotten good and positive feedback from others who have been photographing coins for years. Is it a professional setup? No. Is the setup for those who want to share their coin images in a clear and effective way? Yes. I get really good results when using this method and I assume you can do the same.

I may have left something out you need to know. If so, please write to me and I will be happy to answer. God Bless.. Jerry..

How Can I Share This In A Delicate Way

2011-03-07T15:18:00.001-06:00

Well I did it. I guess we ancient coin cleaners will stoop to most any substance or solution in an effort to create a coin that is pleasing to the eye. One of my AP Good Brothers buried coins in cow patties in search of a better patina so after searching for horse urine and failing I made the decision to try human urine. I had read that horse urine is brushed on copper roofs in Europe to darken the patina. This was the genesis of my HU experiment.

There is no delicate way to treat this subject matter other than head on and with a great deal of honesty. I don't think there is a need to divulge the source of the urine other than to say the source is very handy. Also if my friend can use cow dung why not use HU?

OK, I don't have pics but pics should be forthcoming. The greatest thing is the urine works on bronze. I brushed the surface of what is close to a cull and I brushed until all patina was gone. I had a very, very bright flan of bronze to work with. I dropped the coin into solution and within seconds the coin was darkening and after 10 minutes or so the coin/cull was about 5 values darker.

No doubt we potentially have a winner here. I suspect many will be trying the technique on Zapped coins. One nice thing is the dark value appears to be "locked" to the coin. I was unable to wipe off ANY residue from the coin with a bright white rag. To be honest I am surprised no one has tried this one.

I know it works. The condition of the cull I used simply does not do justice to the process. For those so inclined give it a try and please share your results with me. Be sure there is no wax or oil on the coin. The oil and wax will resist the U. Scrub the coin well with a good dish washing detergent, dry and avoid handling the coin with fingers. I moved the coin about and flipped in solution using my Bamboo stick.

I suspect I may be the butt of jokes for a period of time as a result of my latest contribution to the coin world. That is fine and I realize we are all laughing together. However, there will be those who will thank me. Be sure and let me know what kind of results you get. I think HU is a good reference term.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Transforming The Ugly To Beautiful

2011-02-22T16:29:00.002-06:00

The coin you see above left is a coin I zapped a couple days ago. After Zapping the coin I wished I had photographed the coin before Zapping. The coin was covered with an ugly black residue and was unlike anything I had encountered. It was ugly!

It would be great it you could contrast what was an abysmally ugly coin with the lovely coin you now see. I bought the coin at a very good price because of the condition. The coin now has a beautiful luster and I plan to continue to patinate until the coin is a bit darker.

I hope you enjoy and if you want to take a shot at Zapping simply join CoinZappers and we will get you started. The URL is as follows and when you join simply state that Jerry invited you: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinzappers Thanks and God Bless.. Jerry..

Wonderful Free Ancient Coin Backup Program

2011-02-16T23:55:00.002-06:00

I stumbled across an incredibly simple to use storage box that I just love. It is so simple even this right-brained Old Man can use. The program is dropbox.com and provides members with 2GB of free storage that works with Windows, Mac and Linux. I think it is great backup for all of us who are interested in coins.

I think it took me about five minutes total to install Dropbox and have it operational. I can almost guarantee you will love the simple but somewhat powerful little program. In fact, I look forward to some of you computer gurus downloading Dropbox and letting me know what you think.

I repeat that this great little program is a service that allows us to store up to 2GB of information for free. The Dropbox folder syncs to your computer, smartphone and other web browsing devices. There is nothing to configure and it is very fast.

Dropbox can be accessed from anywhere so one can even access coin files from a distant coin show. I can easily think of many uses for DB. One can list recipes, shopping lists, diet information, and passwords on DB. We are only limited by our imagination. I have had DB installed for 20 minutes or less and I already have coins pics installed.

I give this baby a 10 out of 10. I hope you like it as much as I do and please share your opinions.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Often It Is Not The Glitz

2011-02-04T19:34:00.003-06:00

The flash of a flushed blue bird, the textured grain of weathered wood, the lines in an old man's creased face, a broken egg shell. Often it is not gold nor is it silver. Sometimes it is the face of a long forgotten and well worn coin. Beauty is where we find it.

The coin attached to this post oozes character and beauty and it is not gold. I looked beyond the city and I looked beyond the facades and I found beauty at my feet. Take your time and learn to see. We may look and not see.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Detergent: Ancient Coin Easy Clean

2011-02-03T16:56:00.002-06:00

Are you looking for a kind and gentle way to clean stubborn dirty ancients? If so, I have a solution I consider very kind and gentle. You may know by now that I discourage all from using what I call "hard tools." A hard tool is a dental pick or anything harder than wood.

There is no doubt one will end up with a scarred and scratched coin if hard tools are used. I am an advocate of archival Zapping but that is another story. This is my solution to those of you who are timid about using my Zapping approach.

This is step one so let's get busy cleaning your coin or coins. Purchase or pilfer a bit of dishwashing detergent from mom or from your spouse. Be CERTAIN you use a detergent with grease remover. In fact, I suggest you use a detergent with an extra heavy degreaser. My theory is the degreaser makes for better penetration through the crust.

Begin with a simple scrubbing. I still believe in the good old toothbrush with the shortened bristles. The clipped toothbrush tool will provide one with more leverage. The good old stiff bristled brushes are difficult to find so I suggest the following. Remove, with scissors, about 3-4mm of the bristle length.

OK, I want you to do the following to clean the coin. Place the coin on a bath cloth or towel to help hold the coin in place. One can use the eraser end of a lead pencil to help hold the coin in place. Place a small amount of detergent on the coin and dip your toothbrush in water and scrub away. Please hold your brush parallel to the coin so as not to dig the plastic into the coin's surface. You WILL remove some dirt. Repeat as often as necessary to clean the coin or repeat until you realize your efforts or fruitless. In other words we want a clean coin or we want to move to step two.

Hello! This is step two. I see you failed to clean the coin satisfactorily in step one. Don't despair. Please follow directions and select a small plastic tub about 3" to 4" in diameter. It should be about 2" to 4' tall. Choose a container with a lid. Place about 1 tablespoon of the same detergent liquid in the container and fill the remainder of the container to within 3/4' or so of the top with water.

Place a reasonable number of coins in the container and set aside. Perhaps 1-7 coins. We want the coins to soak for a few days. Place the container and coins in a place where you will see them several times a day. Don't forget the lid! Lift the container and swish about for several seconds. Please swish and don't bang the coins about. Swish has a nice and gentle sound and that is the movement we want.

As you watch TV there is no reason not to swish the coins. I think any agitating action must help. What do you think? Don't expect the coins to be cleaned overnight. Please be patient. The encrustation is being softened and lifted. All depends on how hard the crust is.

When the water is dirty you may want to change water and detergent. I am not sure this helps but I think it is encouraging to see dregs and dirty solution poured off the coins. Patience is what we need using this method of cleaning.

I have one more application for you. If you look at my blog, and I will share the URL: http://www.ancientpeddler.blogspot.com you will find an article I published about making Jerry's Bamboo Tools. The Bamboo tool(s) are invaluable to me. I use the 1/8"diameter Bamboo skewers.

Just as shown in the blog article, cut the skewers in half length wise and create several different kinds of points to aid in probing and prodding the coins surface. We are attempting to loosen as much crust as possible. As the coins are soaking remove the coins periodically and prod, push and loosen whatever dirt or crust will fall away. This really expedites your cleaning and makes for greater success. You may want to "Bamboo" the coins once a day or once a week. I hope this method helps you clean your coins and I would love to hear from you and I would enjoy learning about the degree of success you have. Please bookmark my blog and join if you like.

This method will clean the coins. It is simply a matter of how long and could become a generational thing! God Bless.. Jerry..

My Greek Coin: Should I Have Zapped?

2011-01-29T02:24:00.002-06:00

I chose to Zap the coin you see above. The coin was a "tweener" and I could have filed it away and forgotten about it. However I chose to Zap the coin and I am very pleased with the results. In hand the coin has a nice rich texture and it also has what will become a nice rich patina.

I will allow the coin to patinate for a month or so before using my stop bath and I can already tell I will have a very nice coin. One upside is that I paid very little for the coin because of condition and I am well pleased.

As an art professor I did a bit of restoration work on a few paintings and I see my work with my Zapped coins from pretty much the same perspective. I am correcting and pleasing my eye. As I age (71 February 6Th) I am still blessed with a keen eye and my sense of design is what it was 50 years ago.

As a painter and teacher I was never in bondage to tradition and I feel the same about my coins. If you like my coin then we are on the same page. If not, I accept your position. I would never be upset or angry because another does not agree with me.

If you have an interest in Zapping, I will be happy to share the knowledge I have developed over the past several years. If you like my post please take a look at my blog. The URL is as follows: http://www.ancientpeddler.blogspot.com I experiment a great deal with coin photography and you may find something that will help you there also.. God Bless.. Jerry..

A Brief And Concise History Of Rome

2011-01-28T20:26:00.002-06:00

Capitolium.Org is the publisher of the following article and I give them full credit. I find the article to be an excellent quick reference source. God Bless.. Jerry..

Rome and its numerous centuries of history officially began in 753 B.C. on the slopes of the Palatino hills, when the Etruscans and Greek colonies occupied areas nearby. Tradition gave Romulus the paternity of the village, tracing in the boundary with a plow.

From 509 B.C. until 27 B.C., the republican supreme authority governed and was elected each year by the citizens, establishing the base of civil law.

Rome, once a village, became the capital of an empire in a few centuries and, with the Punic Wars, the undisputed ruler of the Mediterranean Sea.

The territorial and population expansion called for a redefinition of the "republic", or the state. After the assassination of Caesar (44 B.C.) affluent men disputed over the next successor of the new regime-the princedom: Marco Antonio, Cleopatra's ally, or Caesar's adopted son Octavian, both of who shared the rule after Caesar's death. The "princeps" (from primum caput" or "first citizen") founded an empire in a unified and peaceful order that lasted until the III century A.D. ("pax romana"). It was during these centuries that the Roman empire reached its splendor.

With the III century A.D. Rome gradually lost its central role as a kingdom of vastness and universality, until Diocletian separated the empire into two parts, profoundly restructuring economy, finance, politics, and bureaucracy. This guaranteed Rome a new century of prosperity while Christianity became officially authorized in 313 A.D. by Constantine the Great with the issued edict in Milan, contributing to the support of the regime.

In that period, Rome had about 4 million citizens (free men, slaves excluded) and an empire of over 50 million.

In the IV century the nucleus of the empire began to move toward the orient, after successive invasions by Barbarians, Visigoths, and Vandals, that also came to plunder the city of Rome.

In the VI century, the Roman empire began to disappear, leaving its mark in history as having created and unified the so-called "civil world".

Free Ancient Coin Containers: Roman Or Greek

2011-01-23T16:14:00.004-06:00

just picked up a KFC meal today and I was very pleased to find a great looking plastic container in the box. Please take a look at the attached pic. I think of myself as a practical person. Some would use the expression "cheap" I plan to drop by and see if the manger will let me have a few containers to go Otherwise I will work each table and ask for the customer's empty plastic containers. I am too old to do any dumpster diving.

I filled the unit with water and it holds 1/2 cup. I suspect it will hold about 200 AE 3s/4s. I worked the container over and find it to be really sturdy and the lid snaps on and off beautifully. I admire good design and this little puppy is some designer's David. It is wonderfully constructed and appears to be better than the Dollar Store containers I purchase.

The data on the bottom of the container is informative and the legend is as follows: "Microwave & Top Rack Dishwasher Safe." My opinion is that KFC has done a remarkably good job in presenting to the public a great green product. I suspect these will be around for years to come.

I plan to talk with KFC on Monday and see if the plastic has any kind of acid, which I doubt since it is used as a food container and since one is encouraged to reuse as a food container. My opinion again but I think KFC has unwittingly made a tremendous contribution to the ancient coin world. What did we used to say as kids? If you don't want yours, I will take it? I will send my addy upon request.. I value your opinions so let me know what you think.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Organic Repatination of "Coins I have Zapped"

2011-01-18T11:45:00.003-06:00

One of our more illustrious and loved members has shared his method for creating an ancient coin patina. Allen has provided permission for me to publish and I thank him for doing so. I state that I have never used the technique. However, I never question the veracity of Allen's word nor do I question the depth of Allen's intelligence and creativity. Thank you so much my friend. The following is Allen's post to Paul and to our Ancient Peddler group.

Paul et al:
As Jerry has already indicated in another e-mail to the group, I experimented a few years back with creating an organic mixture to speed-up the patination process after zapping. This was after I had read an article in a local paper on techniques used in past centuries for darkening bronze and brass fixtures.

As Jerry stated, I use animal droppings. To be more specific, I use ripe cow pies. My formula is to mix these droppings with water (well water in my case but I assume distilled water would work as well) at a 2:1 ratio (patty to water).

I place the mixture in a flat wooden box (similar in size and shape to a 24 can beer carton) which I marked off into 1" squares (ala the Sq. Ft. gardener's technique). Into this moist slurry-like mixture, I place the overly cleaned AEs and record their precise square assignment as to date and location for future retrieval. Then I cover the box with a torn piece of old burlap sack and store outdoors exposed to the weather. Occasionally. I moisten the burlap but otherwise I leave nature to take its course.

Approximately 6 months later (sometimes sooner if we were experiencing a particularly hot summer), I retrieve one or two coins for examination using a plastic (disposable) spoon.

Approximately 70% percent of the time, the coin has a nice mellow, light green coloration. Longer internments result in darker greens. For the remaining 30% of the coins, no change is noted. I do not know why but to paraphrase, "many are called but fewer are chosen"

I bake the retrieved coins in the oven (no, momma is not aware of this step) at the oven's lowest setting for approximately 15 minutes on each side. This is to harden the patination. After they cool down to room temp, a little Ren Wax is applied and that seems to insure a nice finish.

It works. I am sure someone with a more chemical/scientific background could give specific reasons but to this old coin collector, success is enough of a reason to continue with the process.

Best of luck,
Allen (lexemt4)
p.s. (for Jerry, I always include a p.s. - please feel free to copy this and send it on to Coin Zappers if you wish)

Thanks again my good friend. Allen's post serves to illustrate what ancient coin enthusiasts are willing to do for our hobby! God Bless.. Jerry..

Save Money On PayPal Mailing

2011-01-16T12:03:00.003-06:00

This article is for those who use Pay Pal as their primary source of mailing coins and artifacts. For the past couple of years I have been printing my labels and adhering the mailing label to my flat with tape. My old method makes for a very unattractive presentation. Also,the purchased labels are expensive.

The following is my solution to what has been a problem for me. I continue to use the "normal" 20 pound paper I buy at discount prices. I think I pay about $3 for 500 sheets of 8.5 X 11 inch copy paper. I can print two labels per page so this translates to 1000 labels.

Next, I solved the taping problem by switching to a spray adhesive I bought at WalMart for less than $5.00. I bought the cheapest can of spray with the expectation that I would need to return the product and switch to a more expensive spray adhesive. As it turns out, I think this is the best adhesive I have ever used.

The product is an 11 ounce spray can with amazing adhesive qualities. I can only assume great strides have been made with the new adhesives. I bought "Aleene's Tacky Spray." The term Tacky is somewhat misleading. The product has remarkable bonding qualities and I could not be more pleased. I did some testing and I am unable to remove the sprayed and adhered paper without tearing the paper. The adhesive will not separate. Really great stuff!

I have used spray adhesive for many years and I am going to guess that one will get at least 400-500 adhesion's per can. It could run into the hundreds. We shall see. If you choose to use the product, please be careful about inhalation. I step out on my back porch and spray.

I suggest using my method for spraying the label. First, locate a piece of cardboard somewhat larger that the label, place the label on the cardboard and spray. The cardboard can be used repeatedly since the over spray hardens after sitting for a couple of hours. Follow the directions on your product for setup time. Aleene's suggests one minute. Some sprays encourage longer setup time. I am incredibly pleased with my new method and you guys can do the math on what I am spending per label assuming I do get 400-500 or so labels.

I hope you will give my technique a try. I don't think one could be more pleased. One thing. One could switch to a 24 pound paper but I find the 20 pound paper to be more than adequate. One other thing, I would love for one of you math whizzes to do the cost per math and share with us. If you try my method, please let me know what you think. I could not be more pleased.. thanks and God Bless.. Jerry..

Easy Simple And Gentle Coin Cleaning

2011-01-05T21:06:00.018-06:00

Out good friend and CoinZapper Moderator Shawn (The Lone Knight) has provided us with the following quickie coin cleaning exercise. Shawn has used the method and I look forward to giving it a try. Shawn, thank you very much for sharing.

First, mix 5 grams of sodium carbonate in 100ml of distilled water. This translates as follows: 5 grams is approximately 1 heaping teaspoonful and 100ml is about 1/2 cup of water. I suggest you use distilled/deionized water. Proceed by wrapping your crusty coin in a double layer or "pocket" of aluminum foil. One should form a cup shaped wrap to hold the solution. Add an adequate amount of solution to the cup shape and then place inside a very small plastic container of appropriate size. At this point, add the remainder of the solution.

The aluminum foil will deteriorate because the foil is acting as a sacrificial anode. The process can be continued for an indefinite period of time until the coin is clean since the the process is so mild, gentle and non-aggressive.

I have had success with this method on many coins but other coins needed to be Zapped even after the process. However, the coins may not have needed the additional Zap if I had been a bit more patient and continued the process for longer than three days.

I suggest this coin cleaning method for those who are not quite ready to Zap and are looking for an alternative method to cleaning coins. Shawn I am sure our membership(s) thank you for your contribution as I do.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Bronze Disease: Fast Track Cure!

2010-11-27T13:13:00.006-06:00

Many ancient coin enthusiasts have heard of bronze disease before encountering the dreaded rot! I will not get into the chemistry of bronze disease but I will offer you a quick and viable solution that has worked for me for years. I can help fast track you to the only solution that has worked for me. Please see the attached photo of my Zapped and cleaned coins.

In order to use my technique you will need to join one of my Yahoo groups, CoinZappers. On CoinZappers I have created schematics to help you build a very simply and inexpensive Trickle Zapper. In addition, I will share my long years of experience and the success I have had. My CoinZapper URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinzappers When joining simply state that "Jerry invited you."

I have Zapped thousands of coins and I have never had a problem with BD. I have had problems with coins I have purchased from others. I can often eradicate the problem in 5 minutes or so. I have never had the BD return once I Zapped using my technique. Sesquicarbonate certainly is not the answer. Many coins/artifacts need to be soaked in the sequicarbonate solution for a year or so and then it is very possible and often likely the BD will return.

Why do I do this at no charge? I am a retired college art prof and I enjoy teaching. Nothing less and nothing more. I really enjoy seeing others succeed with their coin restoration and cleaning efforts as I have.. See you at CoinZappers.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Don't Touch This Coin!

2010-09-03T00:39:00.003-05:00

Perhaps I should rephrase the header and ask that the coin's surface be left alone. I could have Zapped the coin or I could have scrubbed it until I rid the coin of whatever is on the surface. In fact, I could have stripped the surface and polished until the surface shone like gold!

There is something about this coin that is beautiful just as it is and my choice is to leave it as is. As an art instructor I taught my students that we knew a painting or design was complete when we could not add to or take anything away without diminishing the esthetics. The visual impact.

This coin has very little coin market value but often we encounter an artifact that transcends economic value. I spent a period of time searching my soul for what it is I like so much about this little coin. Sometimes the visual arts presents us with such a problem. This is what I have encountered... the esthetic moment. The encounter becomes a totally visual experience and words will not work.

My visual exercise is just that. Enjoy the coin for what it is and don't analyze it to death. Just let it be and the coin and we will be OK.

Inexpensive Copy Stand

2010-09-01T13:11:00.002-05:00

I have just located what appears to be a good copy stand for those of us who photograph coins and artifacts. The URL is as follows: http://tinyurl.com/2clezkv I have not bought or used the unit but the price looks right.

If you buy the unit, please let me know what you think please. Thank you for looking and God Bless.. Jerry..

Fast Track To Ancient Coin Photography

2010-08-31T22:47:00.011-05:00

This article is devoted to those who are new to coin photography and who are looking for a "Fast Track" method to photographing and posting coins. I will keep things as simple and as inexpensive as possible. Please read the material carefully and see if you understand. If not, I will be happy to answer any and all questions. I should mention that I get good results using my Fast Track method. The coin photograph you see above was created using the same method I am teaching you.

First of all, I assume you have some kind of digital camera. Your camera will most likely have a macro (close-up) setting and almost all digicams will have a variety of White Balance settings. You will also use the shutter delay. If you are not familiar with your camera or the terms I am using, please familiarize yourself with each term. You will find the terms in your camera's manual.

Although your camera is profoundly important, I believe proper lighting is 98% responsible for the good coin photographs you and I create. Lighting is the bane of most coin photographers and causes the greatest anguish when learning to photograph coins. I am offering you what I consider to be a shortcut around some of the problems you will encounter.

You will need some way to "tie" your camera down or better stated; you will need some way to shoot your camera from a fixed position. I use a couple of copy stands I made. The one I like best is one I made from an old enlarger. It had been in my studio attic for 25 years before I remembered it was there. It does make an awesome copy stand. The copy stand serves the same function as a tripod. It keeps the camera in a fixed position. In fact, you will be able to use a tripod until you either build or buy a copy stand. It is really easy to build a simple copy stand.

We now address the lighting. The following items are needed. You will need a plastic two-quart tea or beverage container, The container MUST have a frosted surface. This frosted surface is what softens and disperses the light. The frosted surface is also translucent as opposed to transparent. I have had an easy time locating the the plastic containers at Wal-Mart, Dollar Tree or Dollar Store. I have found the the pitcher manufactured by "Sterilite" readily available and I also think it has qualities in and apart from the other brands. The pitcher you want has a two-quart capacity and is tall and round. The pitcher is less than $3.

Next, you will need two inexpensive goose neck lamps or two inexpensive aluminum shop lights with a clamp on device attached. I prefer the goose necks because I think they are much more flexible. The goose necks cost about $6 bucks each. You will also need to purchase two 10 or 15 watt fluorescent spiral bulbs as are commonly found in the home. Check Wal-Mart or elsewhere and see if you can locate bulbs with a "K" or Kelvin of about 5000 to 5500. Kelvin is a thermodynamic term we only need know is used in reference to our bulbs.

If you have a choice of 2500 K of 6500 K, choose the 6500. It leans towards the cool. If you are fortunate to have a True Value hardware nearby, you will find their 5000 K bulbs on sale once every month or so. If you are unable to find the bulbs I have mentioned then buy the "daylight" balanced at Wal-Mart or wherever you can find them. Don't blow $15 bucks each on photo bulbs you have to order. I have used plain tungsten and adjusted my camera to a very nice balance.

I am always reluctant to ask anyone to to cut anything because most people do not know how to handle sharp instruments! I do need for you to cut the entire inside bottom from the pitcher. We want a round "tube" Please cut the bottom "out" as opposed to around. If you do not feel comfortable cutting of if you are a bit clumsy then PLEASE ask the best craftsman in your family to help with cutting the pitcher's bottom.

An X-Acto knife is great for such a job as is a box cutter. Cut very slowly and cut away from your body. Never pull the cutter towards you. The cutter could slip and the consequences would be bad. Once you have cut the pitcher, we now have a light tent. Not only that but you have a wonderful light tent! Time to add one more item to our repertoire of items. Please cut a 1/2" diameter dowel to a length of 2". Make sure the dowel is at right angles. In other words we want the dowel erect and level. A 2" bolt with a nut screwed on flush will work as well. A small 2" rod will serve the same purpose.

The purpose of the dowel is to elevate the coin off the surface of your copy stand. The 2" elevation will allow the background (negative space as we artists say) to be slightly out of focus. Trust me at this point to understand this is desirable. Remember, the coin photo you see above was created using precisely the method I am teaching you.

I have suggested the goose necks. I will show a photo of my setup and you will not see goose necks but I did not have the benefit of anyone teaching me. Mine has been all trial and error. Let's run through the setup. The camera will be located directly above the upside down light tent. You will have a goose neck lamp on each side of the tent and the goose necks will have fluorescent bulbs installed. In the center of the light tent you will have a coin on your dowel.

One more thing. Please locate a small thin piece of wood. Perhaps 6"x 12". A thin piece of Masonite would be great as would a 1/4" thick piece of plywood. Pick up a spray can of Wal-Mart brand of "primer gray".. look at the lid and the lid provides a sample color. The gray will be very flat and about a middle value. The color is actually pretty close to photo gray. This piece of wood, well sprayed with your primer gray will serve as your copy stand format. The paint is .99 cents per can.

We do not want strange colors bouncing around and the gray will absorb many stray colors. This does not mean you can't use other colors. I keep a stack of 4" x 5" colored mat board to use as needed. I simply place the color on top of my gray as needed.

Remember to play with the lights when you have all in place. Move the lights up and down.. pull them back and push them forward. You need to become familiar with the parameters of your tent and lights. What do I say? Paint an acre of canvas and you will be a painter. Shoot 1000 coins and you will be better than you were when you shot the first coin.

I am sure I have left some things out I would like to have included. Remember, I am working with a 70 year old brain unlike most of you youngsters. Please tell me what you need to know. What have I overlooked? I will quote myself again. I would tell my art students to not let me move to another subject with the assumption they knew what I was talking about. I say the same to you. Please feel free to ask all the questions you like and I will take as long as needed to share what I know.

I love you all. Look at my photo and I hope to include a photo of my setup at the end of this article. I am having some trouble with my blog so I hope my photographs show up.. God Bless.. Jerry.. PS" Please click on the URL below to view my setup

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36568398@N00/4946739843/

Coin Photography: New Lighting Technique

2010-01-28T20:04:00.002-06:00

I shot the attached coin photograph using a new lighting technique I have been experimenting with for a few weeks. I am sharing the photograph in hopes of getting some feedback. It is not unusual for an artist to ask for objective feedback and that is what I am seeking.

I see a well done photograph but I may be overlooking something in the process. If you have an opinion, please share. If you see an area of weakness, please share. I do this with my art. I seek out the opinion of other artists and I get good feedback that really helps me.

I am thick skinned so whatever you say will not offend me in the least. An artist must learn to trust not only his/her opinions but the opinions of others. Thank you for looking and thank you for reading.. God Bless.. Jerry..

This Is Not A Roman Dime

2010-01-20T19:03:00.007-06:00

I have created a new technique for photographing coins and I am very excited. I think the most naive photographer will be able to have success with my new "Coin Photo Box".. I am still tweaking but the greatest thing about the unit is my ability to focus light right where I want it and the results are quick and right on the money.

I have now shot dozens and dozens of photographs and the problem one normally encounters with reflective surfaces is all but eliminated. Take a look at the accompanying photograph. This photograph is typical of the results I am getting with enormous consistency. Let me know what you think of the photograph you see posted. Would you be satisfied with these results?

One of my friends will be putting the "Box" through its paces soon and I look forward to his feedback. He is excited as I am and I am eager to see his results. He has seen the results I am getting. Thanks for reading and if you have questions, please ask. I will not be sharing a lot about this unit until I have it pretty much perfected.

I have been using the Box for some time now and there are no outstanding issues. If I am correct, this unit will be put Easy Coin Photography within the reach of all newbies and the Box will greatly enhance the abilities of those who have been shooting coins for an extended period of time.. Thank you for reading and God bless.. Jerry..

Rare Roman Coin: All In The Hunt

2010-01-09T00:46:00.001-06:00

It is a great feeling for a Zapper to find a nice Rare coin like the one posted with this article. I cleaned a group of crusty coins and found some pretty nice coins but this one was the most rare of the group. There is something very exciting about finding a very nice coin beneath the layers of crust. I think of it as a treasure hunt.

Many members share the same with me and tell me they love the hunt. They too get a real rush from finding a special coin or even a simple and nice common Roman. If you are not into Zapping don’t get started because you will be hooked! I have Zapped thousands of coins in the past few years and I still get as excited as I did years ago.

The premium crusty Romans are a bit more difficult to find than in years past but I have a small hoard of premium Romans I pull out now and then. As with other things the coins have escalated in price and still kick myself for not investing in more crusties. I hope you enjoy taking a look at this coin and if interested in knowing what I know I will be happy to share. Thank you for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

Crusty Roman And Greek Coins: Simple Approach To Cleaning

2010-01-06T22:49:00.002-06:00

I am often asked if I only use electrolysis to clean my crusty ancient Roman and Greek coins. My answer is “no” and I will share my approach. First of all I find that most of the coins I purchase need a good scrubbing with soap and water to clean up well. If the soap and water fails then I resort to the following.

I soak my crusty coins in water for several hours to determine if the coins are going to relinquish their hold on the coin’s surfaces without a struggle. If the coin or coins resist then I pull out my trusty tool kit. I have several toothbrushes I trust and then I have my “Industrial Nylon Bristle Brush” I purchased from Wal-Mart. My “Big Brush” as I call it is actually a “grout brush” and as indicated can be purchased from Wal-Mart.

The grout brush has very stiff nylon or plastic bristles and is about twice the size of a toothbrush. I also use a very mild dish detergent whenever I scrub the coins. In addition, I use my trusty Bamboo Skewer tools I created a few years ago. I think the Bamboo tools are about the handiest tools a cleaner of Roman ancients can have in his/her toolbox. I use the Bamboo to push the crust about. Please look through my blog and you will find an article I created to instruct others in creating cleaning tools from the bamboo skewers.

OK, back to cleaning. Remember not all crusty coins will drop their crust at the same time. If you clean a dozen coins there will be at least one coin that will insist on retaining its crust until one is prepared to attack the surface with a ball peen hammer! As you soak the coins and scrub and the highly forgiving coins drop their crust simply rinse those well, pat dry and place on a nice dry towel.

Back to the troublemakers! Please don’t fight with the coins. If the coin or coins want to soak longer then let them soak Allow them to soak for a week.. a month. Six months? Don’t forget to pull the coins periodically and check for those coins that are ready to pull. At a particular point I will lose patience and resort to my Zapping. I am sure my readers know about CoinZappers. If not, I will be happy to share my URL. The URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com./group/coinzappers. We will be happy to have you join our Yahoo group and we will share the collective wisdom of years of working with our Zappers.

I hope there is something in my ramblings that will help you and please remember that after cleaning thousands of coins using electrolysis I still feel that Zapping is the kindest method for cleaning coins. For those who are a bit fearful of Zapping I now have a schematic and information for building what I call a “Trickle Zapper”.. we clean using only 150 mA. While at it I want to thank all those who write me and tell me they like my blog. This is very encouraging to me and causes me to want to share even more.

Boy, one thing. I have discovered a new method for photographing my coins and am I excited! I have been working on the setup night and day for a couple of weeks. I will be prepared to share in a couple weeks I think. Great results thus far!

On a personal note I will share that this Old Man will turn “seven oh” as in 70 on the 6th of February. Perhaps I have earned the right to share the following in my new old age. Remember, if you are angry and upset you are the problem. Don’t allow others to hold you hostage to their anger and hostility. We only have this moment so lets enjoy it. Yesterday and tomorrow are only illusions.. Thank you for reading and I love you all.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Ancient Roman Coins: Great Christmas Gifts

2009-12-16T18:16:00.002-06:00

Ancient Roman coins make great Christmas gifts and are readily available from many online sources. The coins can be very inexpensive and one can buy a 1700-year-old Roman coin for $25 or less. I have seen the price of common Roman coins increase by 400% and more during the past three years or so. Consequently, the coins make great gifts for youngsters.

Roman coins make great gifts for young and old alike. Be sure and consider an ancient coin for the historian in the family. I have recently bid on and won a near mint Severus Alexander denarius for less than $15. I did my homework and won the coin on eBay.

One other great thing about Roman coins is that the coins have such a multiplicity of reverses. I think one could find a great reverse for almost any occupation. Of course a bit of research and imagination would be required. I hope my suggestion helps and don’t forget to consider the ancient Roman coins for other gift occasions.

I think the coins would make great and inexpensive gifts for weddings, birthdays and almost any other occasion. Thank you for reading and I always enjoy feedback. Please bookmark my site and please drop by on occasion to see I have posted.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Photographing Ancient Greek And Roman Coins

2009-12-07T14:37:00.001-06:00

I am continuing to work with my coin lighting and I am also working with what I think looks best in terms of presentation. I think we all will agree the potential buyer of one of our coins would prefer to see photographs that best represent the coin we have in hand.

The dolphin coin you see above was purchased just as you see it and I made the decision to leave the coin intact. A bit of dirt and all. I like what I see including the small flaws and the dirt. There is something esthetically nice about leaving the coin’s character intact. I am asking for feedback. I think this is a good topic for discussion.

If you have an opinion about the photograph or about the topic, please share. Thank you for looking and I must admit I feel I am making progress with my coin photography. Thanks for reading and if my blog is of any interest please bookmark and look in from time to time.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Ancient Coins: Photographing The "Ugly"

2009-12-04T16:16:00.002-06:00

Ugly is actually a very poor word choice. Character is a more applicable word but ugly garners more attention. Those of you who follow my photography and coin cleaning articles know that I do search out what I consider to be beautiful. However, I think there is much to learn when photographing coins with character. Please take a look at the coins above and see if there is anything to be learned.

I chose one highly reflective coin, which is always a problem for the naive or new coin photographer. The other coins were chosen arbitrarily from one of my boxes of less than excellent coins. I did look for imperfections, a variety of textures and color anomalies. Each element possesses a potential learning experience for the coin photographer. Collectively there are many things to be learned from such an exercise.

When I was still in my college classroom it was not unusual for me to assign students the task of developing fifty drawings or a dozen designs of particular subject matter over a weekend.
I have been photographing coins most of the day and I suspect I have shot and looked at 40-50 coins by now. I may continue to explore this exercise for days and ultimately shoot and look at a couple hundred coin shots. I have done 200 drawings during many drawing sessions. Of course I would have to qualify what I was doing and I will not bore you with the details.

I highly recommend you jump aboard and perform such a photography exercise. Be sure to look for lighting adjustments and color balance as you work. You will encounter many elements and principles with which to deal and after shooting and studying one coin you will be a better coin photographer. After you do the same with 200 coins you will begin to master your craft.. thank you and God Bless.. Jerry.. PS: Feedback is nice..

How To Buy Ancient Coins On eBay

2009-11-12T08:33:00.006-06:00

Many members write me about buying coins on eBay and I have what I think is a good method for eBay buying. Is is not rocket science but I know my approach to buying does work. I have bought successfully on eBay and I continue to bid on eBay coins. First of all I take a look at the vendors return policy and if he/she does not have a policy stated I then write and ask his/her return policy. I ask if satisfaction is guaranteed and I ask if the vendor will accept returns.

If the vendor's return policy is viable I then bid. I think it is very important to take a look at the dealer's rating. I think anything below 98% should be a red flag.
I hope this helps those who are reluctant to bid. I would also like to see this post stimulate conversation and I would like to see other's opinions. Thank you for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

Great Hobby: Collecting Ancient Coins

2009-10-09T16:13:00.003-05:00

Ancient coin collecting has the potential to be a profoundly fascinating hobby for those who are interested in coins or interested in history. The hobby can be about as expensive and one chooses. The first ancient coin purchase I made cost me $2.50 cents for a Constantius back in the seventies. I have paid as little as $1.00 each for uncleaned ancient coins. I have borrowed a part of the following article from the US Mint. There was no author’s name so I will give credit to the US taxpayers.

“There are many excellent reasons why you might want to collect coins. For starters, they tell unique stories. A coin's design, mintmark, condition and composition can offer a glimpse into history and a better understanding of the past.
Some people collect coins in the hope that they will appreciate in value. Some coins have intrinsic bullion value (such as silver, gold and platinum coins). Others become valuable because they are rare.
Coin collecting, one of the oldest hobbies, was once practiced only by kings and the wealthy. That's why coin collecting often is called the "king of hobbies" and the "hobby of kings."
Coin collecting became increasingly popular in America during the 1930s when United States commemorative coins became widely available. Today, there are millions of coin collectors in the United States alone. The thriving coin-collecting community, which includes clubs throughout the United States, provides numerous opportunities for collectors to meet and trade.
A Brief History of Coins
From ancient Egyptian coins to today's circulating cents, coins have a rich and fascinating history. The first coins date back to 650 B.C. - more than 2,600 years ago - in Lydia, an area that today is part of Turkey.”

Enough from the US Mint. With great bias, I will share the very best source for learning about ancient coins. I have an Ancient Coin Yahoo group, Ancient Peddler, where we have some of the finest ancient coin scholars on the web. I encourage you and your friends to join our group and I encourage you to ask all the questions you care to ask about ancient coins. I will also state that we have been know to drift off topic from time to time since we are a very friendly and caring group. Our Ancient Peddler URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ancientpeddler
We have other ancient coins groups but I will share that information at some future time. Thank you for reading and I hope your interest in ancient coin collecting had been stimulated to some degree.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Getting To Know Our Ancient Coin Metals

2009-08-26T13:47:00.002-05:00

One of our Ancient Peddler members asked a question about bronze and after doing a bit of research I realized how little many of us know about coin metals. I will share some things I discovered about bronze. If you can add to my list, please do and please let us know what you have learned.

Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin.

Bronze was developed as an alloy thousands of years ago.

Obviously, the Bronze Age was called that because of development of bronze.

Historians believe bronze was “created” as early as 3000 BC.

Bronze is tougher that its parent metal copper.

Bronze is very resistant to corrosion.

Bronze has a relatively low melting point.

Bronze used to manufacture bells is called “Bell Metal” and is created by adding tin.

Statuary bronze will have as little as 10% tin.

Zinc is added to bronze alloy to add strength for the manufacture of bearings and weapons.

Phosphor is often added to bronze to add more strength.

Manganese is often added to bronze to increase strength and machinability.

I hope you find these facts about bronze interesting and I am wondering if the ancients knew some of these things such as adding zinc. I have always been interested in metals and wood and I hope I have not bored you with my personal interest in bronze.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Extra Zapping Reveals This Beauty

2009-07-25T20:20:00.003-05:00

The coin you see to the right was very resistant to cleaning so I placed her in my Super Zapper and gave her an extra kick and the crust eventually fell away. It is difficult to find coins of this quality unless one finds the coin under crust. I still have a bit of touching up to do and will most likely use my graphite pencil scrub to eliminate the darkness around the legend.

After I finish cleaning the coin I plan to allow the coin to patinate naturally with just a little help. I find great joy in extricating these coins from the encrustation. I am the first to see this coin in this condition in about 1700 years. I am sure if it was not for Zapping, I would have little interest in ancient coins. As a retired teacher I would be unable to afford the coins I like. Many of the members of CoinZappers feel the same as I do about Zapping. I must warn you, it is addictive! Thank you for looking and God bless.. Jerry..

Lighting: This Is What I Have Been Looking For

2009-07-04T11:49:00.004-05:00

I have been working with my coin photo lighting for months and I am finally satisfied with recent results. Please take a look at the Antonius Pius attached left and see if you agree. If you like what you see, then go back through my blog posts and see if there is a light tent you like.

I have reported more than once that I believe good coin photography is about 98% lighting and the remaining 2% accounts for other factors. I really hope that something I have shared will help you move ahead more rapidly that I have. I built another light tent a few days ago that I like a lot. Perhaps I will share the unit soon.

Let me know what you think of the photo. Perhaps I am being too subjective and perhaps you can share something that will make me a better coin photographer. Thank you for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

What Is The Oldest Metal Coin

2009-06-28T13:54:00.004-05:00

I must give credit for the following article to “Cais Archaeological & Cultural News”.. In the process of reading about ancient metal money I encountered the following article and I believe it is of interest to many of our members. The article did not provide an author’s name so I am presenting the article as I found it.

It is widely believed that Lydians were the first nation to ever mint a coin for financial transactions; however, an Iranian scholar has just refuted the theory.

According to existent documents, it is impossible to confirm if Lydians minted coins for the very first time, and we just can say first coins were produced in a land stretched from ancient Persia to Greece, contended Dr. Naser Chegini, head of the history department at the archaeological research center of Iranian Cultural Heritage and Tourism Organization (CHTO).

He believes human beings initially used leaves, stone insignias and shells to conduct their transactions. “But they were not viable and soon people decided to make coins. I reckon it happened during the 6th and 7th centuries BC, but there is no verifiable proof that Lydians invented coins.”

‘The Lydians,’ says Herodotus (i. 94), ‘were the first people we know of to strike coins of gold and of silver’, and Xenophanes of Colophon bears witness to the same tradition. Passing from these statements of ancient writers to an examination of the earliest Asiatic essays in the craft of coining, we are led to ascribe to the seventh century B.C., and probably to the reign of Gyges (B.C. 687- 652), the founder of the dynasty of the Mermnadae and of the new Lydian empire, as distinguished from the Lydia of more remote antiquity, the first issues of the Lydian mint.

These are bean-shaped ingots of the metal called by the Greeks ‘electrum’ or ‘white gold’, a natural compound of gold and silver, collected at Sardes from the washings of the little mountain torrent Pactolus, and perhaps from diggings on the slopes of Tmolus and Sipylus. Ingots and rings, &c., of the precious metals adjusted to fixed weights had been used for purposes of exchange for ages before the Lydians first invented the convenient process of stamping them with marks as guarantees of value. Ingots thus stamped henceforth passed freely as current coin, and, so long as they were correct in weight, the exact amount of pure gold in each lump of metal does not appear to have been taken into consideration.

The generally accepted rate of exchange between pure gold and silver stood in these times as 13.3 to 1, and the mixed metal, ‘electrum,’ of very variable quality, was roughly estimated at the rate of about 10 to 1, a convenient proportion which enabled bankers and money-changers to make use of a single set of weights for electrum and silver, and which accounts for the fact that the weights of the electrum staters correspond with those of the later silver staters, and depend upon the standard which happened to be in use for weighing silver in bullion and afterwards in coin in various districts. These standards were, in Lydia, the so-called Babylonic (stater 168 grs.) and the so-called Phoenician (stater 220 grs.).

One of the most fascinating coins of all time, a coin that has more reason than any other to be called the first true coin, is the Lydian third stater, or trite, pictured above. This coin was minted around 600 B.C. in Lydia, Asia Minor (current-day Turkey), a country in close proximity to both the Greek colonies in Asia Minor, through which ideas about coinage and much else spread, and the civilizations of Mesopotamia, from which ideas about money and much else originated.

Thank you for reading and I would love to have you share your opinions about the article.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Using TinyURL Effectively: Tutorial

2009-05-18T20:13:00.005-05:00

Many times we encounter URL’s that are so long they are hard to copy and paste without “breaking” the string. Consequently the URL ‘s are ineffective as we attempt to share with others. There is a wonderful solution and the solution is what is known as a TinyURL.

I continue to discover there are many members who do not know how to use the Tiny or either they are unaware of the program. I hope to resolve this issue in my article. First of all go to http://www.tinyurl.com/ and take a look at what we have. I will attempt to walk you through the process of creating a TinyURL. Now choose a site and copy the URL and change to a Tiny using the following instructions.

Use your regular browser to locate the desired site.
Look at the top of the displayed site and you will see the URL in the address window.
Highlight the URL by left clicking on the string with your mouse. Make sure the entire string is highlighted.
Next, using your mouse, right click on the URL and click on the “Copy” option.
You will now need to go to http://www.tinyurl.com/ I keep the Tiny saved to “Favorites” so I can simply drop down and it is instantly ready to use.
In the center of the TinyURL page you will see a box that states ”Enter a long URL to make tiny” Place your mouse cursor in the box, right click and click the “Paste” option. Your long URL will be pasted in the box.
Next, click the button to the right that states “Make a TinyURL”
Instantly you will see a much-shortened version of the once long URL. What was once a URL of 40 characters has been reduced to 10 or so characters.
You will now need to copy and paste the TinyURL anywhere you would normally have copied and pasted the long and cumbersome URL. Please practice until you have learned the program and practice copying and pasting until you feel comfortable with TinyURL.

I hope I have explained the Tiny well enough to enable you to use the program effectively. I will be happy to answer any questions. I love this little program and I hope you get as much use from it as I do.. God Bless.. Jerry..

When Is A Coin No Longer A Coin?

2009-04-24T13:30:00.001-05:00

Is the coin I have attached to this article still a coin in spite of its deterioration? If so, at what point in the process of deterioration does the object cease to be a coin? If the coin remains for years in the same place until we have only a small pile of sediment, would we say we still have a coin or at this point would we say we have the remains of a coin?

Allow me this premise. What if I am left with a pile of sediment but knew the coin in its better days, visually.. Would the coin be real? Would it not be real in my memory? If you sell your car is the car still real? Yes. It simply is no longer in your visual realm. Or is it? As you image the car in your mind is that not your reality of the car?

Let’s try this. What if I select a perfectly good bronze Roman coin and melt it with a torch.. Is the coin still a coin as we observe the molten lump of bronze? We have changed the entire appearance of the coin but is the image within our mind our reality? What if I shift my presentation and tell you I found the attached image amongst a group of rusted nuts, bolts and washers? I think your opinion will suddenly change.

So is it true that perception is reality or is it true that your perception is your reality? Thank you for reading and feedback is invited. Please bookmark.. God bless.. Jerry..

PhotoPlus Free Editor Has PS Like Features?

2009-04-21T10:10:00.004-05:00

I fully acknowledge that the following PhotoPlus 6 Free article was developed by the freewarezoom.com staff. I take no credit for writing the article. The program is free and I think all our coin photography members should take a good look at the program before purchasing a photo editor. To download, perform a "Free PhotoPlus 6" search and locate a good download site.

With PhotoPlus 6 you can enhance your photos for the best possible results, adjust brightness and color and even remove red-eye - and all for free!. Put your creative abilities on display for all to see and impress your family and friends! Packed full of fantastic features normally reserved for high-end, high-priced applications, PhotoPlus 6 is ideal for complete beginners and professionals alike.

Features:
Creative Tools. Paintbrush, airbrush, clone, smudge and erase tools with adjustable brush settings including size, shape, softness and fade are all at your fingertips.
Digital Darkroom. Enhance, repair and tweak your photos for the best results possible. Adjust brightness, color hue and saturation, contrast, sharpness and more. Even remove red-eye!
Layer Effects. Add Bevel or Drop Shadow layer effects for a sophisticated 3D look on text or other image elements. The layer manager lets you alter and preview specific image layers. This is how the professionals do it.

Versatile Deform Tool. This “Swiss Army Knife” of image tools lets you rotate, resize, skew, reshape, or add perspective to any selection or layer. Easy to master, yet incredibly powerful.
Animation. Allows you to easily edit or create animated GIFs for use on the Internet or in presentations. With a few simple clicks, an entire animation can be created for you.

I have tried PP6 in the past and just as with any new program there is a slight learning curve. I highly recommend.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Penny Coin Photo Contest

2009-04-16T21:22:00.003-05:00

This is a close to last minute notice to join out “Penny Coin Photo Contest” at our group, CoinPhotography. We are a Yahoo group and it appears we are growing rapidly. We invite all to join our CoinPhotograpy group and join the in the contest fun.
You will need to join our group at the following URL in order to participate:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinphotography

We are primarily focused on coin collectors but the doors are open to all. If you join as April 17 you will have more than a week to prepare coin photos. Out focus is on a US penny and on a US State quarter. Once you join our steering directors, Carlos and Ron, will point you in the right direction.

I can assure you we are a great and friendly group and we will be happy to share the photography information we have. Conversely, we would like for you to share with us.. Don’t hesitate, join and help us enlarge our Photography Family.. God Bless.. Jerry..

No! Not Another Copy Stand In Progress

2009-03-11T11:03:00.004-05:00

Yep! I am building a heavy duty copy stand using cold rolled steel and I thought some readers might like to see the work in progress. I am using a piece of 1" cold rolled steel for the vertical and the other parts are also being machined from cold rolled steel. Please click on the following link to see the parts: http://www.flickr.com/ As I indicated the vertical rod is a 1" piece of shafting material I picked up at the local foundry. It is very heavy and very sturdy.

You will also see the bottom flange that has been machined. It will be bolted to the copy stand surface. I have two set screws in this piece to make it even more sturdy. In another photograph you will see the sliding sleeve that will be used to raise and lower the camera. I can feel no "play" in the sleeve at all. It is machined to 0003. tolerance. I think that is the way I am supposed to write 3/thousandths.

I will have a vertical arm attached to this piece and it will be used to hold the camera. I will be replacing the hex-head bolt with the thumb bolt. I am considering a few different ways to attach the camera but I think I have pretty much settled on one device. I will share photos of the finished product. Thank you for viewing and if you have questions, I will be happy to answer.. God Bless.. Jerry..

I Finished My Latest Copy Stand

2009-03-09T15:48:00.003-05:00

Well I have finished my latest copy stand with the exception of painting the head. I plan to spray the head with flat black paint. I am sharing the unit with my readers with the intent of turning someone else on to building a copy stand. I used a simple point and shoot camera so my photos could have been better but I think you will get the idea. I used an old Beseler enlarger and stripped away the head and other non-essential parts.

I constructed the new head using wood and aluminum. I am pleased at how strong the unit is. I was also able to fabricate the head in such a way as to keep it parallel to the copy stand base and of course this is very important. Please take a look at my photos and I think you will get a good idea as to how I constructed the unit: http://www.flickr.com/ I will be happy to answer any and all questions about the copy stand. Thank you for looking and God Bless.. Jerry..

Photos Created Using The Sterilite Light Tent

2009-03-05T21:29:00.004-06:00

I am sharing a couple of photos made using my Sterilite light tent. The more I use the unit the happier I am. The light distribution is wonderful and I am using two 60 watt GE incandescent bulbs. I will add that these are the first photos made using my new photo copy stand I made from and old Beseler enlarger.

The copy stand is working really well and I feel really good about it. Back to the coin photo. The Sterilite plastic light tent I wrote about in an earlier article is even better than I thought. I have run the gamut of coin photos and the light distribution really makes for good photos. I will remind you that I bought my container from a Dollar Store for either $2 or $2.50.

I saw the same container at WalMart for $2.17. If interested in creating the unit please refer back to my earlier article where I provide a step by step process for creating the tent. See the photos on the left and let me know what you think. We have a Coin Photography group and I know some of the members are beginning to use the unit. If you need more information about the unit you can write me and I will be happy to respond.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Retain Coin Character Without Over Working

2009-02-28T13:13:00.002-06:00

I am using a Leton Widow's Mite to illustrate how the character of a coin can be maintained without over working in post processing. I could have removed most of the bright spots on the coin and I could have "processed" the coin until I had created the image of a pristine coin. However, I chose to allow the visual integrity of the coin to remain manifest.

After all we are dealing with a coin that is over 2000 years old. I really enjoy the lights and darks and I also like the less than perfect "age spots".. I see the character of a coin that "speaks" to me from 2000 years ago as opposed to a highly post-processed coin edited in PhotoShop.

I know this is a highly subjective issue and you may of may not agree with me. I have discovered that the coin most often dictates to me the degree of editing that should be done just as the degree of encrustation "tells" me how much I should clean the coin. As an artist I have always attempted to teach others that esthetics is a purely personal thing and that we should never let another would be "scholar" try to determine our tastes.

I hope you have enjoyed and I hope to hear from you. I love to listen to other's opinions.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Creating Copy Stand From Old Enlarger

2009-02-21T13:53:00.001-06:00

Well, I am at it again. I recalled I had an old enlarger in the attic of my art studio and my nephew crawled into the attic and recovered it for me. It is a pretty day so I have been working on my rear deck. You can see my art studio in the background. I have the world's most cluttered studio I think! The enlarger should make a great copy stand so I am sharing with you.

The unit is an old Beseler 67CP I have had for eons. As you can see from the photo above I have stripped away the head and other non-essential items such as the lens, bellows and other metal devices. You can see the items on the table top. I encountered more small screws and bolts than I would have thought. As I disassembled the unit, I was constantly aware of how much better things were made back then than now. I am about 12 bolts and screws short of having enough to open a small hardware store.

I will most likely wait until Monday to proceed. I need to drill and tap two holes in the front of where you can imagine the camera will be mounted. I plan to fabricate a device that will mount on the front and hold the camera. The unit is very sturdy and I think it will make a fine copy stand. I have no idea where one would find and old copy stand such as this one but I think it would be worth keeping one's eyes open for one.

I plan to test drive the copy stand sometime next week so I will let you know how it works out. One quick note. I just happened to have the Beseler and if it had been any other make I would have attempted to do the same. In other words if you are interested don't think the Beseler is the only enlarger that will make a good copy stand.. Please ask all the questions you like and please post.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Photos Using $2 Sterilite Light Tent

2009-02-18T15:22:00.003-06:00

I have been shooting more photos using my $2 Sterilite orange juice container. I am sharing a couple of photos and I hope the photos will prod members to give my technique a try. Please allow me to encourage you to play with your white balance settings. Also feel free to write me and ask questions.

I am pretty sure this tent will become my standard. I have not found anything that enables me to come close to the results I am getting. I have tried a "pro" model and dozens of other models of my creation and nothing comes close to measuring up to the $2 tent. However, it is my nature to continually seek new and better systems and there may be something new on the horizon. Who knows.

As you find sources for the Sterilite container please share with all our Brothers and Sisters. Please bookmark my blog and please visit periodically to see what is new.. God Bless.. Jerry..

My Best $2 Light Tent Yet

2009-02-17T16:15:00.005-06:00

Well, now let’s take a look at the long awaited Cadillac of light tents. As you look at my cluttered photo above I am afraid you may already be disappointed but before you jump ship please hear me out. I will repeat that the upside down pitcher you see above is the best light tent I have created and I have dozens of efforts under my belt.

I am going to spell everything out as well as I can and I will provide you with names and sources. I am really sold on this puppy and I hope to see tremendous strides made by our ancient coin photographers. Our focus will be on what I will call the orange juice container you see directly under my camera. My camera is a Canon XTI and is mounted on a copy stand I designed.

I shoot all my coin pics using a Sigma 105mm Macro lens. I think a custom white balance is great but I don’t think this exercise will leave anyone out regardless of camera. Back to the orange juice container. I bought my container from one of the Dollar Stores for either $2 dollars or $2.50. I cannot stress how important this particular container is. I have used all kinds of frosted plastic and none measures up to the frosted plastic used to construct this container.

I am about to provide you will a URL and a picture of the "right" container and I will provide you with the item number. The unit comes from Sterilite and here is the URL to their home page:
http://tinyurl.com/bsu9jb Please look at item number 0482. This is the container I want you to purchase. I have used many other containers and they are unlike this element of perfection! This is a 2 quarts or 2 liter unit.

Please take a careful look at the plastic pitcher. Unfortunately I could not find anything other than the name "Sterilite" on the pitcher. I assume that all will be able to locate the pitcher. Call the company if you have to and ask for the nearest distributor. Once you have the pitcher in hand, you will be ready to proceed.

Remove the blue and gold top. The top of the pitcher will become the bottom. You will now need to cut the bottom out of the pitcher. I say this with a great deal of trepidation because I am terrified someone will end up with a nasty cut. If you are not skilled at working with your hands, please recruit a friend or neighbor to help you cut the bottom from the pitcher.

Once you have achieved this then you are ready to move on to lighting. The Canon has a very good custom white balance setting and I don’t have any idea what your camera is capable of doing with white balance. I have a Fuji that does not have the custom white balance but it does have an array of settings. If you don’t know about white balance then read your camera’s manual carefully relative to white balance.

The lights you see in the photo positioned on each side of the orange juice container are flex-arm lights and I have using common 60 watt incandescent light bulbs in each. I need to sum up by stating that I think shop lights will work well. You will need to practice with the angle of the lighting and you will need to practice with light proximity.

A note here. When setting your white balance, be sure and move the camera's lens as close as possible to the top opening. Be sure your lights are on and set the light your camera is 'reading" from inside the container. I am sure I have left out a couple of obvious things. Please feel free to write me and ask all the questions you like. We have quite a few members on our sites who are members of our Yahoo CoinPhotography group. I hope they will jump right in and start publishing their coin photography results. Thank you for reading and please bookmark my blog. God Bless.. Jerry..

My Most Recent $2 Light Tent

2009-02-16T14:57:00.002-06:00

Greetings readers. I have been experimenting with my photography and lighting and the coin photo you see above is a result of my latest creative efforts. The “light tent” cost me $2 and was intended for use other than photography. I am very excited about my discovery and I am prepared to share if you would like for me to. The new tent provides me with wonderful illumination using two 60 watts incandescent light bulbs.

I don’t recall if I shared the coin or not. It is the product of one of my Zapping sessions and I have it attributed as a Commerative Augustus struck under the rule of Tiberius. Back to the photography. I have shared quite a bit about my lighting and my lighting tents and I don’t know if you are prepared for another! However, each tent has brought me closer to what I have now developed and I consider this tent to be my consummate effort.. Thanks for reading and let me know.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Ancient Coins: A Budget Hobby

2009-02-11T18:33:00.001-06:00

A bit of dialogue on one of my sites prompted me to write this article. I know there are many ancient coins that can cost one a small fortune and I know some of the coins are extremely scarce. However, I am amazed that I can sit here in my home in South Central Mississippi with what amounts to hundreds of museum pieces.

Of course I am speaking of my ancient coins. Most of my coins are the result of Zapping coins I have bought for a buck or so. On occasion I will spend as much as 3 bucks each for a group of crusty coins. I still think ancient coin collecting is one of the best kept secrets around. Unlike many of my coin friends I have invested very little in coin books. I depend on the wonderful coin sites to help provide me with attribution material.

Today, I bought an AR 6th century coin with beautiful imagery for $35 dollars. I consider the purchase to be an amazing bargain. The coin really belongs in a museum for others to enjoy as I do. I can think of no hobby that brings me as much joy as ancient coin collecting does and especially when one considers the expense of other hobbies. Dollar for dollar I think we coin enthusiasts get the most bang for the buck.

I will not attempt to match hobby cost against hobby cost but I think we are very fortunate to enjoy our interest for so little money. I realize there are those who spend thousands on ancient coins but the great thing is I can enjoy my $35 coin just as much as he/she enjoys his/her golden ancient. Thank you all for being my friends and thank you all for being tolerant of this old man.. God Bless.. Jerry..

A Safe Way To Store Your Coins

2009-02-05T12:02:00.003-06:00

As your ancient coin collection grows, I am sure your thoughts will or have turned to safe methods of storing your coins. There are several ways of safely storing your coins but I will address only one of these methods. I think plastic “flips” are a great way to store your coins.

There are flips that are unsafe and there are flips considered archivally safe. Never use flips that contain PVC. PVC is harmful to the coins and I don’t think anyone will question the veracity of this statement. Ask your vendor for archival safe flips and I think you will also find the price of the archival flips is very reasonable in contrast to the unsafe.

A nice feature about flips is that the flips can be bought in sheets and placed in a three ring binder. This makes for convenient and nice presentations of your coins. This method will also allow you to show your coins without the viewer coming in contact with your coins.

The binders can easily be labeled and shelved in a convenient place. These binders can be purchased at Wal-Mart or at an office supply store. The binders also make for easy transportation from to coin shows, etc. In terms of preservation, I think this is one of the most efficient, safe and economical investments the collector can make.

If you would like to share your preservation methods, please do. I am always looking for a better ways to do things. I hope you have enjoyed this article and while reading please go through the remainder of my blog. Please bookmark and visit on occasion.. God Bless.. Jerry..

New Milk Carton Photo Light Tent

2009-01-28T15:21:00.003-06:00

Please take a look at the photo above and see what you think. I used a 1-quart milk carton for a “light tent.” I trimmed the top of the carton away and I cut an opening in the bottom to allow the milk carton to slip over the coin. I used two Soft Light GE off the shelf “normal” light bulbs for my light sources. I placed one light on each side.

I used something different but one can use the aluminum shop lights from Wal-Mart to hold and reflect the light. I think the lights are $6.95 each. I like the shop lights with clamps and that enables me to place the light wherever I like. I placed the lights within a foot of the milk carton. One can move the light around and play with the direction of the light.

I plan to spend more time now learning the proper way to light the coin. I have a custom white balance on my camera and that enables me to adjust my camera to the light I am using. If you are using a point and shoot camera you should find that you have several options for setting your white balance. If you do not have a custom white balance setting then try the incandescent setting you will find on your point and shoot.

If the incandescent bulbs do not work for you then switch to 25-watt fluorescents. You should have one white balance setting on your camera that will meet your needs. If you go through my blog you will find many coin photo efforts. I am continuing to work with my setup and I have plans to try axial lighting as an option. In fact, I was working with axial lighting just yesterday.

About the coin. I have many “pretty” coins but I selected a coin with lots of character. I think these coins are more fun to shoot. You may of may not agree. I shot this photo with a Canon XTI and I used a Sigma 105mm Macro lens. I shot in aperture priority and I used the copy stand friends of mine and I made. I used Irfanview to stitch the photo together. I shot the coin on a gray background and I did a post-processing black fill using PhotoShop.

I am open to good constructive criticism and I should mention that my good friends at CoinPhotography are helping me to understand much I did not know. Thank you for reading and I hope this causes you to get the camera out and start snapping your coins. . God Bless.. Jerry..

Coin Stilts And Coin Photography

2009-01-19T12:03:00.005-06:00

I have made several stilts for my coin photography and I am sharing the details with all my Coin Photography friends. First of all, please allow me to explain why I use the stilts. The stilt (dowel) elevates the coin and causes the negative space (background) to fall out of focus. The stilt also helps to cast any shadows well to the side of the photograph and out of the coin’s picture plane.

As you observe the photo above you will see four of the stilts I have made from scraps of wood. I almost always have scraps of wood handy and never throw any cutoffs away. Please note the dowels are of various heights and diameters. The smallest diameter dowel I have used is 3/16”. The largest is 3/8”. I find the 3/8” dowel meets my needs about 99% of the time.

The 3/16” is for the extremely small diameter coins. You will also notice that I have varying heights of stilts. I use different heights to meet special lighting needs. My lighting setup dicates the postioning of the coin and the height stilt Iuse. I also have a tendency to go into overkill when creating items. I could get by easily with two stilts.

My favorite stilt is 3/8” diameter and 3” in height. The base measures ¾” in thickness.
I have spray painted the stilts a flat primer gray. I think gray is the ideal color for the negative area for those who will be filling the background with another color. I am a sucker for seeing how inexpensively I can build anything. I used Wal-Mart brand .99-cent spray paint and I think the paint is really great to be so cheap.

Some of our Coin Photography members like to tilt their coins to get a good cast shadow. That means cutting the dowel on a slight diagonal on the top to accomplish this. Doug Smith and I have discussed this to some degree and I am going to let Doug and my readers in on my secret.
I use “Elmer’s Tack” which is removable adhesive putty. My wife keeps the tack around to help hold pictures in place. Just a small amount will aid in keeping pictures from shifting on the wall. It is just tacky enough to hold poster board, calendars, and messages in place. In fact, one could place a 1/8” thick layer on top of the dowel and simply shift the coin as needed.

I place a small amount on top of my dowel when I need to elevate the coin to one side or the other. I use about a 1/16” small “ball” of the substance on top of the dowel and that way I can tilt the coin to the position I want. I can’t conceive of anything working better. I used to keep varying thicknesses of wood handy but the “Tack” is so easily pushed to the right position. The tack can also be used repeatedly and I guess it can be used for years, as it does not dry out. Thank you for reading and please share any photo tips with me and our readers.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Photos Of Coins I Have Zapped

2009-01-15T11:24:00.004-06:00

I am sharing photographs of coins I have zapped in the past. I have worked at perfecting my Zapping for the past several years and I am providing photos in order to demonstrate the level of skill I have achieved. All the coins you see attched to this article were Zapped by me at one time or another. I hope you enjoy the photos and we would be very happy to have you join our group. The URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinzappers We have several other groups that may interest you. If you are working at perfecting your coin photography, I encourage you to join us at the CoinPhotography. The URL is as follows:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinphotography Thank you for viewing and I look forward to meeting you. When joining just say that Jerry invited you.. God Bless.. Jerry..

A Free Shekel? Not Quite

2009-01-07T18:04:00.003-06:00

A member of Ancient Peddler and a dear friend e-mailed me about a ½ Shekel of Tyre he had located on my behalf. My friend provided me with a phone number and the gentleman’s name who owned the coin. I called and entered into a conversation with “Mac” and I felt as if I had known the gentleman for 20 years.

On the basis of our conversation and the price, I was considering buying the coin sight unseen. However, at a particular point, Mac asked if he could send me the coin to look at and make a decision. I was truly taken aback. I thought those days were gone! I should add that Mac did not appear to need my business either. He was busy with coins and calls during our conversation.Mac told me the coin would most likely be in the mail tomorrow.

I should state that I have many dealer friends on Ancient Peddler who will do the same but we have known one another for years. This is a refreshingly nice thing to happen and causes me to realize what a wonderful Coin Family we do have. I thank my dear AP Brother for locating the coin but I thank him even more for introducing me to Mac. God Bless.. Jerry..

Solution: Photographing Black And Shiny Coins

2008-12-12T19:05:00.002-06:00

I have spoken with other ancient coin enthusiasts who have problems photographing coins with black patinas and especially black and shiny patinas. The “noise” is profoundly visually disturbing and looks a great deal like snow on the coin. I think I have made some headway towards resolving the problem. I will share what I have discovered.

First, the noise as I understand is the result of the white points or “snow” being underdeveloped. Consequently we need for the noise to receive more light. I think each person I have spoken with has encouraged me to shoot at f/11. I have opened the aperture to f/5.6 and I get much better results. It occurred to me that if we need more exposure then we actually need to admit more light. The coin is also thin enough that we don’t have to worry about depth of field.

In addition, my Canon XTI has a setting where I can increase exposure time and I did so by a plus (+) 1. I immediately saw better results. The coin you see above left is a very black and shiny coin. I think the coin photo is highly acceptable. I know we have a variety of cameras within our groups and I don’t have the answer to all cameras.

Therefore the responsibility of learning to use your camera falls on your shoulders. I would love to see members who have had this problem give my report a try. If you do and if you discover additional information, please share. It appears the path to learning to photograph coins is a long and arduous one. We are still in the infancy of ancient coin photography and our coins present problems not found with contemporary coins. Thank you for reading and I hope this exercise helps you as it has me.. God Bless.. Jerry.. PS: We have a Coin Photography group at the following URL if you would like to join:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinphotography

The Littlest Light Tent Of All

2008-12-09T13:53:00.001-06:00

This is the smallest “light tent” I have created and it works great! I call it my “Medicine Cup Light Tent.” I have learned that anything that will diffuse light will enable one to make a good coin photograph. I selected a small, frosted, plastic, medicine cup and the dimensions are as follows. The height is one inch and the width of what became my top is one and 3/8 inches.

I simply cut and removed the bottom of the medicine cup. I must say I was not surprised when I got good coin shots. The cup appeared to have the proper quality to diffuse the light well. By the way, the white covers on the heads of my lights are handkerchiefs. The cup works with the handkerchiefs in place or removed.

I encourage you to give it a try. You may really like the small cup light tent. I should mention that I elevated the coin by placing the coin on a small nut I had handy. Nut as in nut and bolt! Here is a photograph of the cup on the base of my copy stand: http://tinyurl.com/6r55bp The coin you see above is a coin I photographed using the Medicine Cup Light Tent. Please let me know if you try any of my light tents. I have plans for another. God Bless.. Jerry..

Jerry's 5 Cent Photo Light Tent

2008-12-07T13:47:00.002-06:00

I had a terrible time sleeping last night. I was thinking about a simple and inexpensive way to disperse and diffuse light falling on our coins as we photograph them. Earlier in the day I had looked on the web and found a light tent for about $250 dollars. That was terribly discouraging and I knew I could make one just as well. My kids had bought me a tent last year and it just did not work well so I returned it to the seller.

I have spent months working with frosted plastic and fabric with pretty good results. Suddenly I had one of those light bulb moments and it hit me, use paper! I thoughtfully continued to work on the design, as I lay awake for hours. I continued to simplify the “tent” until it was simply a matter of cutting and taping once I entered my studio this morning. Within minutes I had the tent cut, taped and assembled.

I knew it would work and work well. After assembly I chose a couple of coins that would normally present photographic problems. I photographed and you see the results above. I will explain the process in detail although it is very simple.

Cut a sheet of ordinary copy paper to the following dimensions. Leave the paper the length it is, 11 inches. I trimmed the paper to 6” in height. I then rolled the paper into a cylinder and taped it with clear tape. That is it! That is the light tent. I used 22-pound paper. I think 20-pound will work well and I think 24 pound paper may be a bit thick. Regardless, I am very happy with the results and I think anyone can construct the tent in a matter of minutes. By the way, I overlapped the paper by 1 inch and that creates a 3” diameter cylinder. Here is my setup and you will see the tent on my copy stand:
http://tinyurl.com/585mvg I hope the simplicity of this setup is simple enough to cause all to want to try. I would like feedback as to what kind of success you have with the tent. Remember, you have a good tent but you still must get to know your camera. Thank you reading, bookmark and visit on occasion. God Bless.. Jerry..

More "Milk Jug Photo Box" Efforts

2008-12-06T21:34:00.001-06:00

I think the Menander you see above serves perfectly to demonstrate the properties of the “Milk Jug Photo Box.” I purposefully selected the coin because it is less than perfect but does possess the variations of hues, values and intensities that demonstrates how well the little light box works.

I changed my lighting to some degree and added the same fluorescent bulbs to two flex arm lights and placed one light on either side of the box. I really like what is happening and plan to continue to experiment until I have things nailed down. I am still looking for frosted Plexiglas. I would like to create a unit using Plexiglas and I have a few other ideas in mind for that exercise.

Please get your quart milk jug cut to dimensions and get busy shooting coin pics. I want to see what you are doing and I bet you can help me discover an even better way to use our “Milk Jug Photo Box”.. Thanks for reading and I will try to shoot a few better quality coins for those who have asked. The Menander has served to tell me a lot however.

Please bookmark my page and stay in touch.. God Bless.. Jerry..

My Milk Carton Photo Setup

2008-12-05T12:40:00.002-06:00

I have had more responses to this article than any other I have written. The following is the URL to a photo of my cluttered setup: http://tinyurl.com/6f9y2m I guess all artists are alike in that we have lots of clutter. It is difficult to see the copy stand my friends and I made. I used my wife’s small Nikon to take this picture. The camera you see in the picture is my XTI with the Sigma 105mm Macro lens.

You may also notice something on top of my camera. That is a small lightweight plastic carpenter’s level I use to keep my lens completely vertical. The lights to the left and right are temporary and I will replace with two lights I have with flex arms. I use daylight fluorescent bulbs from Wal-Mart.

The focus of interest is the small white device on the table of my copy stand. It is simply a one-quart milk carton with the top cut off about six inches from the bottom. I then cut the bottom out of the carton and wrapped the carton with two layers of white cotton fabric. I used clear tape to hold the fabric in place. I placed my coin on top of a one-inch tall section of dowel rod to help avoid shadows.

I then placed the carton down and over the coin, turned on my lights and shot my photograph in aperture priority mode. I plan to arrange my office/studio so I can get to things better. Once I become interested in a new experiment I let things lie where they may. I wish I had more to show than what you asked to see! The setup does not look like much but it really does the job. I am trying to secure a small quantity of frosted Plexiglas and create the same unit from the Plexiglas material. Thank you for asking and thank you for sharing.

I will mention that we have a CoinPhotography group with some really good Photo Scholars. I encourage you to join. You will learn much and we have members from across the skill spectrum. You will feel very comfortable as a member. The URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinphtotgraphy Thank you for reading and thank you for the interest. As I indicated, I have had lots of feedback about this article. Your feedback inspires me to experiment and inspires me to share. Please bookmark my site.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Good Coin Photos: Diffusion Is The Key!

2008-12-04T14:34:00.002-06:00

I have been working with my coin photo lighting today and after a couple of years, I realized that until one masters lighting then one is lost. As I was lying in bed last night, I noticed how well diffused the light was that came from the white shade of my bedside lamp. I was thinking of how I could get the same effect. My shade is too large or I would have used it.

This morning I went about the house looking for something that would give me the same results as my lampshade. I found where V had stuck a one-quart milk container in the back of one of the cabinets. I cut the top half off the container, leaving me with the bottom half. I now had the bottom half of the empty milk container. I cut a large opening in the bottom, placed the container over my coin, illuminated each side with two of my shop lights and I now had a “light tent”.

I proceeded to photograph a bright penny and the results were good but I needed more diffusion. I am an artist/pack rat so I was able to locate a nice piece of fabric within my inside studio. I cut the cotton fabric to size and wrapped the container with two layers of the fabric. I then placed the coin on a one-inch length of dowel to achieve some elevation so as to avoid coin shadows.

I placed the open end of the container over the coin, turned on my lights and I knew at once I had the proper diffusion! I shot the coin with my Canon XTI and Sigma 105mm Macro lens and as I shot the coin I ran the EV up and down the scale to make certain I had a good shot. I looked at the results and I am terribly excited. Not a shadow or a reflection! Take a look at the Aretas IV you see above and let me know what you think.

I mentioned the Canon I have. I truly believe one can get great results with a point and shoot camera. I think one needs a macro setting, ISO changer (ideally) at and at least an aperture priority mode. I would look for a camera with a manual setting mode. Remember, one does not need 7 mega pixels! One mega pixel is enough. I have looked on Ebay many times and there are all kinds of bargains to be had with gently used or seldom used cameras. There are many used 3 and 4 mega pixel cameras with the settings you need. Take a look.

I would like to mention that I know I am not the first coin enthusiast to use a milk carton. However, I had tried a larger one-gallon container in the past with poor results. I think moving to the smaller one quart container and wrapping the unit with the fabric is what made things fall into place for me. I am going to try to locate a piece of frosted Plexiglas and create a tent using the Plexiglas material. I can’t get past the aesthetics! Thank you for reading and I hope this article generates enough interest to get you started. Please bookmark my site and return on occasion to see what we are up to. God Bless.. Jerry..

Seal Controversy: Error Made?

2008-12-01T00:25:00.006-06:00

I saw the following article in the "Biblical Archiology Review" and I found it to be very interesting. I hope you enjoy as much as I did. There was no credit as to author.

On January 16, 2008, excavator Eilat Mazar announced that a team she is leading south of the Temple Mount in Jerusalem had uncovered an inscribed seal that dated to the time of Nehemiah. She read the name on the seal as “Temech” (tav, mem and het) and suggested that it belonged to the family of that name mentioned in the Book of Nehemiah. Soon after the announcement, however, European scholar Peter van der Veen suggested that Mazar had erred by reading the inscription straight on rather than backward, to account for the fact that a seal creates a mirror image when it used to inscribe a piece of clay. He and other critics suggested that the seal actually bears four letters (shin, lamed, mem and tav) and that the correct reading is “Shlomit,” which itself may be a name mentioned in the Bible. Mazar has now acknowledged that the seal should indeed be read as “Shlomit.”

After reading this article I don't feel as bad about some of my attributions.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Another Great Anode

2008-11-28T21:57:00.003-06:00

I can’t seem to stop creating anodes. I have another anode I really love and it works beautifully. I call it the “Center-Fired” anode. The anode is made from ¾” mild steel and 3/16” mild steel. I highly recommend this unit for those using the smaller power sources.
I use a 1.2 (5.2 cups) liter plastic container with my smaller power source so I need for my anode to be about 4” in length. Different containers will dictate different length anodes. In other words you must choose a container and then cut the anode to fit your container. Look at the illustration I have included with the article and you will see the horizontal mild steel bar is ¾” in diameter.

Please observe the vertical mild steel is 3/16” in diameter. If you are using no more than 800mA then you can use a 1/8”diameter vertical piece. I would try to secure the 3/16” however. The vertical rod must rise above your container by a couple of inches. This will make certain you will not have wire in your solution. In fact, I would bend the top one inch of the vertical back and away form the container using pliers or ViceGrips.

The vertical rod is welded to the horizontal rod and it takes about one zap from a MIG welder to do the job. While making up one unit why not make three or four. This way as the anode collects crud one can have one or more anodes in soak. Remember you must determine the measurements so the unit will fit into your container.

What is so great about this anode? First, you do realize the lead is clipped to the vertical piece. When the unit is cranked up and Zapping you will find the coin closest to the center receives the most activity. I like this. As coins become clean you can adjust the coins needing less Zap towards the ends of the anode. I keep my coins moving about as needed.

If I have a rock-hard encrusted coin(s) then I allow that coin(s) to fire near the center. The cleaner the coin, the more I adjust the coin towards the end of the anode. I hope I did not mislead you into thinking this anode is for the smaller units only. I have used the same kind of anode on larger Zappers and fired 20 coins or so very effectively. This is a very sturdy unit and once cut and welded you will have an anode that will last for years with the proper cleaning.

Once you have an anode cleaned be sure and dip in white vinegar, wash with soap, rinse and dry and put aside. Again, the anode should last for years. It is the Sherman Tank of anodes. Click on the illustration to enlarge. Please feel free to ask questions. God Bless.. Jerry..

Free: Coin Picture BackUps

2008-11-25T18:47:00.003-06:00

Recently two of my friend’s computers crashed. Fortunately they had important data backed up. I have never been one to back up files but the second crash of a friend’s drive got my attention. Shawn, one of our fine members, shared the following site with me and I am passing the information on to our members who want to back up coins pics or other data.

Mozy offers free online backup solutions for the home. One can get a free MozyHome account that allows up to 2GB of online storage. Of course, one can subscribe to more space for less than $5 dollars per month. I like the freebie 2GB. I have done my homework and learned that Mozy is a highly reputable company with state of the art security.

I know nothing about algorithms and password encryption so I have to rely on PC to tell me Mozy is excellent in these departments. Ease of use is of primary importance to me. I was surprised to find that Shawn was correct and that even I was able to download and use without a hitch. You are right so far Shawn. When reviewers begin to talk about elaborate interfaces and the like my eyes begin to glaze over. Suffice it to say the program was easy for me to download and the image appears to be very functional.

I suggest you go to http://mozy.com/ and see for yourself.
If you will share with Mozy that I suggested you take a look they will give me extra space. You will need to know my e-mail and it is as follows: coinstore@comcast.net Perhaps I am being a bit mercenary but I will leave that to your conscious. Either way is great but I will be downloading data that serves our sites. Thank you for reading and please let me know if you use the program and please let me know what you think.. God Bless.. Jerry..

When New Is Not Necessarily Better

2008-09-02T13:22:00.007-05:00

Have you ever downloaded a “new” version of an older version of software you have known and loved for years only to have it perform poorly or even crash? Wish you had the older version back? Well, help is on the way at oldversion.com.

Downgrade until your heart’s content at oldversion.com which offers almost all revisions of a multitude of common programs such as Internet Explorer, Skype, Google Earth and many more. The programs are free so you can make your selections without any expense.

Please let me know if you try any of the programs and please let me know how you like the results. God Bless.. Jerry..

Do You Have The Sense To Know Your US Cents?

2008-07-19T17:09:00.007-05:00

We had a nice response to our last article concerning the US Cent so we are adding a bit more. I hope you enjoy and we love to get feedback. You can e-mail me at coinstore@comcast.net or you can simply respond online. I hope the following is informative and enlightening.

The cent was made of pure copper from 1793 to 1837.

The cent was made of bronze from 1837 to 1857.

In 1857 the cent was mixed as an alloy of 88% copper and 12% nickel. This continued until 1864.

From 1864 to 1962 the coin was once again changed to bronze.

From 1962 to 1982, the cent's tin content was removed. This resulted in a composition of 95% copper and 5% zinc.

In 1982, the cent's composition was changed to 97.5% zinc and 2.5 % copper and this is what we now call the "clad penny."

Addendum: in 1943, the coin's composition was changed to zinc-coated steel. This change lasted for one year only and was created as a result of the critical use of copper during WWII.

I hope you have enjoyed these little facts and we will appreciate any information you may want to share. God Bless.. Jerry..

A Penny For Your Thoughts

2008-07-18T16:16:00.005-05:00

I am seeking the numismatic expertise of members and readers of my blog relative to the US Penny. The penny as currency is pretty much worthless. The copper content of each coin is 1.3 times the value of the coin itself. Environmentalists are calling for a cessation of copper mining. Thus, the outcry to terminate the penny as currency is growing louder.

There are rumors the penny will no longer be minted after 2009. I knew I had a question in here someplace so here it is. Should I begin to buy common rolls of pennies to put back for my grandchildren? If the answer is yes, is there a “better” penny for me to invest in such as the solid copper penny? I have very few US coins and consequently, I am pretty much in the dark.

Please write me at coinstore@comcast.net and advise me if you will. Thank you very much for reading and please bookmark my site. By the way, I hope you like my penny photo.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Coin Photography: New Lighting Method

2008-07-16T14:53:00.003-05:00

I have been working with my coin photography for a long time now and I have been working with lighting in particular. In recent days I have found a “new” method of lighting that I am very pleased with. The coin on the left was photographed using the new lighting technique.

I have a ceiling fan with a light kit attached in the room where I photograph my coins. I removed the light cover from the fan and inserted a fluorescent bulb in the mount and left the cover off. The copy stand I use is about six feet from the bulb. I have shot quite a few photographs over the past few days and I am very pleased with the results.

Of course, one could use wherever ceiling light fixture one has. Mine happens to be the fan with the light kit. Also, I have one window in the room that faces west and I do get some light through the window when I shoot during the day.

The color balance is good and I am very pleased to this point. I am shooting about f/8 at a very slow shutter speed. I have my camera pretty much locked down so I am not concerned with the shutter speed since I am shooting aperture priority. The depth of field seems to be fine. If interested, give it a try and let me know what you think and let me know what kind of results you get. Thank you for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

Transition From The Ordinary To Art

2008-07-06T18:35:00.002-05:00

The photograph above is of a "Star Gazer" my wife has. I shot the flower several times and made the decision I accomplished what I wanted with this photograph. I attempted to elevate the subject matter to something more than the ordinary. One could apply the term surreal. Look carefully and you begin to see imagery such as a sunrise and small animals. Also, remain loyal to your taste. I do not ask you to like, I only ask for you to appreciate. I believe it is incumbent on the artist to show his/her world to the viewer. I hope you enjoy.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Patinated Coin: Before And After

2008-06-27T15:11:00.002-05:00

A member asked to see one of my coins before and after patination. I had several coins already Zapped and I chose the one you see to the left because I did not mind polishing it a bit. I used my 800 mA power source as opposed to the Pyramid 26 KX. The smaller unit with a smaller container is much more convenient for my patinating needs.

The coin has a bit of pitting and shows up in the photograph. However, the thrust of the article is to demonstrate what can be done using my technique. I Reversed my leads as I wrote about in my last patination article. I placed the coin in the solution for 10 seconds, pulled the coin and rotated the clip to another position.

I repeated three times for a total patination time of 30 seconds. I could have continued with the process until the coin was much darker but stopped at the point I thought the coin would look best. Perhaps I should have chosen a much better coin but this coin suffices to illustrate my point. My e-mail is as follows and if you have questions please feel free to ask. jceaus@yahoo.com I think it is good to ask questions openly so the entire group benefits. Thank you and God Bless.. Jerry..

Zappers: Patinate Your Coins Using Reverse Electrolysis

2008-06-26T22:27:00.003-05:00

About three years ago I developed a technique for artificially adding patina to a Zapped coin and I am sharing with each of you. The technique works best with bronze coins as opposed to copper. I use the method to patinate coins I have had to Zap for long periods of time.
The process is very simple and if you follow my directions you will have good success. First of all, make sure your Zapped coin is clean and devoid of all debris. Next, I want you to reverse the leads to your zapper. The negative lead is connected to your anode and the positive lead is connected to your cathode.
It is best to work with a “dirty” solution or a solution in which you have Zapped coins. Place the coin in the solution the same as if you were preparing to Zap. Turn the current on and leave the coin in the solution for about 10 seconds. Immediately pull the coin after 10 seconds and rotate the alligator clip to another position on the coin. Otherwise you will have a bright spot on the coin where the clip was attached.
Allow the coin to remain in the solution for another 10 seconds, pull the coin, and rotate the clip again. Repeat this process until the coin is as dark as you like. Once the coin is the value you like then wash with running water and allow the coin to dry. The patinating process may take one to two minutes or even longer using this process but the results can be really great. Give it a try and let me know if you have questions. You can e-mail me at jceaus@yahoo.com One other thing, be sure and return your leads to the normal Zapping position so things will be ready for your next zapping session. Thanks for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

A Safe Way To Store Your Zapped And Cleaned Coins

2008-06-16T12:45:00.003-05:00

This article is for all you Zappers who want to know how to store your coins once they are zapped. This is a question I am often asked. Please read and if you have questions, write me. You can reach me at jceaus@yahoo.com

I am assuming you are zapping your coins as we teach you to do on CoinZappers. Pull your coin from the solution and drop the coin in a small container of white vinegar. You should see your coin fizz for 30 seconds or so. Once the coin ceases to fizz, move to the next step.

Wash your coin in water using a mild dishwashing liquid. I think most all the liquids are mild. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a soft towel.

Place your coin(s) on a window ledge and allow the coin(s) to dry. You may want to place your coin on your deck where it will be in direct sunlight. Turn the coin over at least once while drying. I think a couple of hours in sunlight are sufficient.

If you plan to wax your coin, wax the coin with Ren Wax. The last time I looked Tony and Tom had Ren Wax at commonbonze.com

I suggest a thin layer of wax. The wax can be applied with your finger or with a very soft toothbrush.

You are now ready for storage. I recommend an archival flip made from prolar polyester. Be certain your flips DO NOT contain PVC. I personally like the 2”x 2” size flips.

I hope this information helps. Please write me at jceaus@yahoo.com if you have questions. One other thing, if you are not a member of CoinZappers I suggest you join. We have great members with a vast knowledge of coin zapping. The URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinzappers and simply state that Jerry sent you.

Don’t forget about our new group, CoinPhotography. We have great members with a wonderful knowledge of photographing coins. The URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinphotography Simply say that Jerry asked you to join. God Bless.. Jerry..

My New "Green" Solar Hot Plate

2008-05-23T12:55:00.004-05:00

Should one dry one’s coins after zapping? The answer is yes and I have a very simple solution for drying your coins. I have created what I call my “Solar Hot Plate”. I will call it the “SHP”. Now just what is the SHP and why do I need it? The SHP is an area of metal or plastic painted with glossy black paint and is used to dry coins.
Locate a piece of metal or plastic such as a large lid one finds on a gallon-size container. The bottom side of an empty margarine tub will work really well also. Buy a can of WalMart’s .99-cent glossy black spray paint and paint the surface of your metal or plastic really well with the paint. A couple of coats should cover well and allow the unit to dry for a day or so.
You have now “built” my new fangled SHP! Not rocket science but you will love the way the unit dries your coins. I left my plate on the back deck and the surface temp rose to 120 degrees and higher. You can place the unit on a windowsill or on your deck.
The concept of the SHP is to dry your coins so place your coin(s) on the unit’s surface and allow the coins to dry for an hour or so. Be sure and leave at least 50% of the unit’s area open to the sun. In other words, do not cover the entire area of the SHP with coins. You want the sun to reach at least 50% of the SHP’s surface area.
A quick note. After zapping, place your coins in white vinegar for a few minutes and allow the vinegar to neutralize the sodium carbonate we use in our solution. Next, wash your coins thoroughly with a soft brush, water and a mild dishwashing detergent. Dry with a paper towel and you are now ready to enjoy our new “green” SHP! I think simple things such as the SHP makes this hobby much more enjoyable. I hope you agree.
I bet many will readers will create units much more clever than mine. For example, one could create an SHP oven! Please share with us.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Zapping A "Concrete Crusty" Coin

2008-05-02T20:59:00.003-05:00

Hannah, one of our CoinZapper members, asked if I would make an effort to clean the coin you see pictured above. I agreed and as soon as I saw the coin I realized it had a terribly hard crust. There is no way to recover this kind of coin and maintain any imagery without zapping.

Please look at the bottom two images and you will see the condition of the coin upon arrival. I tested the crust and I rarely find coin with crusts as hard as was on Hanna’s coin. I zapped the coin most of the afternoon using my large zapper and my now well-known Bamboo Tools to help prod the crust loose.

From experience I knew the coin would most likely have pitting and as you can see it does. However, the beauty of the obverse especially strikes me. The coin reminds me of a piece of renaissance art. I am reminded of a piece from a frieze that has been exposed to the elements for an extended period of time. I love the character of the coin and I hope Hannah enjoys it. I am particularly open to critiques of my photographs. I enjoy receiving constructive criticism.

I would prefer the cleaned coin images had less of a brassy look but that is the result of having to leave the coin in the zapper for an extended period of time. If you enjoy my blog, please bookmark. God Bless.. Jerry..

Lighting Problems Solved?

2008-04-15T14:00:00.004-05:00

I am very excited about the results of my lighting research and the results I am getting! I have spent months trying to get rid of "noise" and other problems I have had with my coin photography. I have experimented endlessly. I knew most of the problems I was getting was from the bright spots on the coins. Answer? Return to the basics. I knew I needed diffused lighting and I knew the lack of lay at the source of my problem.

I picked up a piece of frosted Plexiglas a few months ago and I had bought a couple of 5 and 1/2" clamp on work lights from Home Depot or Lowe's and I had these on hand. I had enough bulbs including the fluorescent spirals I had been using. I had experimented with all kind of bulbs. I cut the Plexiglas to the size you see in the photograph above and secured it to the face of the "cans" with large rubber bands. I plan to drill small holes through the can and secure the Plexiglas using a 1/8" stove bolts and wing nuts.

Part of the beauty of what I have done is in the portability of the unit(s). I can hold one unit in place by hand and light from any direction I like. I can clamp the light, one or two onto the shelf you see in the picture or I can clamp one or more lights onto the two vertical posts I made. I can also place the unit on the work surface and use the spring clamp to elevate and shoot across the coin's surface.

I cannot believe how easily I can hold one unit in hand and snap my shutter with the other and not have to worry about the bright spots. I can hold one unit at the angle I want and clamp the other unit in place for a fill light. Please observe the Plexiglas is tightly in place against the light can. I left the lights on for an extended period of time and the fluorescent hardly warmed the Plexiglas. CAUTION: ANY other bulb would present a heat problem.

The bulbs I am using are 13 watt spiral fluorecents. I used my wife's little Nikon 46oo to photograph the setup so the photographs are not the best. Suddenly my Fuji s5000 is much more camera than I ever thought as a result of my new lighting system. I have a friend who wants us to make these to sell. I have not done any research and I have no idea if this has been done before. Regardless, this is all new technology to me. You have the right to make units for your use. This setup works so well that I may let him look into "manufacturing".. Someone may write and say this was done eons ago but if it was I am amazed that I did not know about it.

Please click on the URL's below so you can understand what is going on. The Plexiglas is 1/8" inch thick. I think that is about 3mm. I hope you have questions and I hope you will ask them. I am sure this is terribly written but I am trying to get the information to all. I satisfied my questions well after midnight and I am a bit tired. I will state, without equivocation, that you will like the results of your efforts if you assemble one or more of the units. I cannot believe how wonderfully the unit(s) work. Also remember that you can use a more powerful bulb and a larger can if you like. Please send me feedback. Thank you for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

More photos:

http://tinyurl.com/6x74d2

http://tinyurl.com/4ao6mu

http://tinyurl.com/6jk7zq

The following is a mirro finished siver coins I was unable to photgraph becase of the shiny fininsh until I used Jerry's Photo Can: http://tinyurl.com/58bepy

Adobe: New And Free Photo Program

2008-04-01T14:24:00.005-05:00

The following article has been released by Adobe Systems. I think many of our members will enjoy the latest beta version. I will appreciate feedback. God Bless.. Jerry..

Free Online Software Brings Photoshop Technology to Anyone Taking Digital Photos
SAN JOSE, Calif. — March 27 , 2008 — Adobe Systems Incorporated (Nasdaq:ADBE) today announced Adobe® Photoshop® Express public beta, a free Rich Internet Application (RIA) available to anyone who wants to store, sort and show off digital photos with eye-catching effects. During the public beta period, Adobe will solicit Photoshop Express user feedback on product features and functionality, which will continue to evolve over time. As the newest addition to the Photoshop family line, Photoshop Express has taken much of Adobe’s best image editing technology and made it simple and accessible to a new online audience. Photoshop Express allows users to store up to 2 gigabytes of images online for free, make edits to their photos, and share them online in creative ways, including downloading and uploading photos from popular social networking sites like Facebook.

“Photoshop is trusted technology that has changed the visual landscape of our world. Now, Photoshop Express allows anyone who snaps a digital photo to easily achieve the high-impact results for which Adobe is known,” said Doug Mack, vice president of Consumer and Hosted Solutions at Adobe. “Photoshop Express is a convenient, single destination where you can store, edit and share photos whether you’re at home, school or on the road.”

Simple, Fun and Accessible
With Photoshop Express, digital photos can be uploaded and sorted anytime, edited non-destructively to always preserve the original image, and shared from anywhere, on any Web browser. In a few easy clicks, Photoshop Express empowers anyone to make standard edits, such as removing blemishes and red-eye, converting to black and white, cropping and resizing, and much more.

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Nice Photo Trick For Coin Photographers

2008-03-25T18:03:00.002-05:00

I have a really tough time shooting shiny coins and I will share a tip with you I learned a long time ago that helps. There is a very cheap hair spray (I assume it is still around) called AquaNet. I probably bought AquaNet because it was very cheap! Other brands of hairspray may work just as well. Regardless, mist your shiny coin with the hairspray until the surface of the coin turns "flat." Flat, means there is no reflective quality.

Once the coin is photographed then it is a very easy chore to wash the hair spray from the coin's surface with water. I don't think the hairspray would harm the wax on the surface of a waxed coin. The next time you encounter a coin that is giving you a great deal of reflection then please try and let us know how this trick works for you.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Coin Photographers: Don't Break Your Bulbs!

2008-03-21T16:10:00.003-05:00

I recently saw or read that a family member broke a fluorescent bulb in their house and the cost of calling in a hazardous cleanup crew to get rid of the mercury contaminant was $2000. I know many of you use the fluoresents as a light source for your coin photography as I often do, but I had no idea the potential contamination was considered to be so serious.

As I began to search for the degree of potential danger I encountered the following article: http://tinyurl.com/yr5gjb What do you think or know? Here is another article I think you should read: http://tinyurl.com/2skf86 I am sure there are already millions of the bulbs in use and we will probably hear much more about the potential hazards. I hope we have a few Bulb Gurus who can , forgive me. enlighten us! Thanks for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

Why Do I Continue To Get Photo "Noise"

2008-03-09T17:49:00.003-05:00

If I understand the digital photography term "noise" properly, I think this is one of my coin photography problems. I have noticed that when photographing my very dark and very light coins I get a visually garbled appearance. One solution I have tried with some degree of success is to soften the light by using layers of cotton material placed over my light(s). I would love to get feedback from all about this problem. If you have the same problem or if you have a solution, please share with me/us.

I use the Fuji S5000 to shoot my coins and I think I get some really good results with the exception of the situation I just mentioned. Fuji has just released a new point and shoot model that may possibly be the solution to my problem. The camera is the Fuji FinePix F100fd. The blurb I read spoke of digital cameras that blur a scenes brightest colors. Of course I am sure they are speaking of white and black as colors too.

Fuji's new P&S extracts more digital information from brights and darks and provides a wider range of values. The concept sounds great and I am excited that this may be new technology for all digital cameras. I think the camera is a bit on the pricey side at $380 at: fujifilm.com I am sure the prices will fall rather rapidly as most new digital cameras do. I am really excited about the new technology but that is as much as I know.

I am not in a position to know anymore than I am reporting at this point. I will try to call Fuji and see what else I can learn. Under no circumstances am I recommending the camera. If someone does purchase the camera or has purchased the camera , please share with us. I would also love for you to join our new CoinPhotography group and share with us. Of course you may be a complete newbie and that is fine too. Our URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CoinPhotography You have a standing invitation to join us. Thank you for reading and I look forward to your feedback.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Can You Name And Date The Coin?

2008-03-02T20:47:00.004-06:00

I have cleaned a nice silver coin and I would like for you to give me a date the coin was struck please and I want to see if you can name the emperor. Thank you for looking. Please bookmark my blog. God Bless.. Jerry..

Please Join Our Coin Photography Discussion Group

2008-02-27T15:50:00.003-06:00

We have a great little group going at CoinPhotography and we have attracted several knowledgeable coin photographers. Currently we have a great discussion going about using polarizing filters to aid us in photographing "slabs." I know there are sites where coin photography is taught but we are the only Yahoo CoinPhotography discussion group I know of.

Several of our coin members have shown us great photos they have made using their point and shoot cameras. We cover the entire spectrum of talent. Please consider joining us and please consider sharing with us. I need all the help I can get with my Coin Photography. Come on and break down and get on board. We really need your expertise and there are many of us who need to enhance our coin photo skills. I bet you will enjoy yourselves and I bet you will learn a lot!

We are open forum and all are invited to join. Please consider joining us and reading the posts. We have at least three members who use the DSLR's but I know many are the same and I am! On a budget! I have seen the results of some wonderful coin photos made with sub $200 cameras. The URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CoinPhotography Thank you and I look forward to seeing you on CP! God Bless.. Jerry..

Two Artists, Past And Present, Meet

2008-02-26T13:23:00.002-06:00

I finished cleaning several coins last night and I was struck by the beauty of the stag on one particular coin. The coin was in very bad condition and I decided to work on the stag and add an element of my own. I used and older version of PS to help provide definition to the animal. I added an eye and "erased" some of the pitted areas on the legs and body. I gave greater definition to the head and removed all reference to what was a coin form and partial legend.

I wanted an element that was uniquely mine so I added a small pile of rocks and a bush. I enjoyed the exercise very much and hope you appreciate.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Princeton Ancient Coins: Fascinating Article

2008-02-25T14:45:00.002-06:00

I stumbled across the following article about Princeton's ancient coin collection and found it to be fascinating. I give full credit for the article to the Associated Press and to the writer, Chris Newmarker. I hope you enjoy as much I did.

Princeton coins are gateway to history
CHRIS NEWMARKER
Associated Press
PRINCETON, N.J. - Alan Stahl has a lot of change on his hands - and not the kind you can cash in at any bank. The curator of Princeton University's numismatic collection is in charge of protecting and displaying tens of thousands of coins, tokens, medals, and pieces of paper money.
"The funny thing is, I've never owned a personal coin collection," said Stahl, 60.
The 150-year-old collection started as an assemblage of plaster casts of ancient Greek and Roman coins. Stahl estimates it now contains about 80,000 items.
New acquisitions in the past year have made the collection even more diverse: a donation of 2,000 ancient Chinese coins, and the purchase of more than 800 medieval Greek coins, bought for hundreds of thousands of dollars.
About a dozen university students each spend a few hours a week cataloging the coins. So far, the collection's online system has more than 3,000 coins listed, about 1,000 coins entered in each year.
"At this rate, we'll be done in 50 years," Stahl said.
For the students, cataloging the coins is an education in itself. As a junior majoring in classics, 21-year-old Joe Codega has read a great deal about the ancient Romans.
But he felt a greater connection with the subject he loves last week as he held a brass coin with the image of the big-chinned Roman Emperor Nero on the front. The back showed Rome's temple of Janus with its doors closed - a symbol that the empire was at peace.
"It's neat to be able to hold something that an ancient person held," Codega said.
Some of the collection's coins are on display at Princeton's Firestone Library, where the collection is housed.
Any member of the public can also ask to see a tray with some coins, though Stahl will keep close watch to make sure coins don't go missing. Stahl still cringes when he recalls a theft at the American Numismatic Society when he was there in the late 1980s.
"I'm pleased to say I wasn't the person handing him the trays," Stahl said.
Half of the collection, about 30,000 coins, comes from Princeton University archaeological work in Antioch, in what is now Turkey, during the late 1930s.
The dig turned up a trove of ancient Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Islamic coins. Stahl still handles envelopes with the handwriting of the lead archeologist's wife, who catalogued the money.
"Sometimes I can see where she scraped just a little to bring up a mark for identification. We wouldn't do that today, but I can see her rationale. I do feel a certain kinship to her," Stahl said.
The collection includes Byzantine coins that are bent, almost in cup shapes. Some of the ancient Chinese coins are shaped like knives and keys.
But for the most part, the coins are round and flat - a feature Stahl guesses might be due to functionality.
"The knife coins would sure punch a hole in your pocket or purse. I guess a square coin would be bad," Stahl said.
Stahl first became interested in coins in the early 1970s while studying for his doctoral degree in medieval history at the University of Pennsylvania.
Kingdoms and empires, Stahl said, usually have rulers on the front of their coins, though the Byzantine Empire also used Jesus. Republics in history have avoided living people, and instead concentrated on symbols of what is valued by the state.
Particularly in the past, most average people didn't see their country's capital and its public buildings, or the nation's important documents. But they did see coins.
"Virtually every person is exposed to the coinage of that country," Stahl said.

Again, I hope you enjoyed the article. Thank you for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

A Broken Licenius: Found Art

2008-02-16T20:54:00.003-06:00

How little we see! The old adage, “Many people look but few people see is so appropriate with this old and broken Licinius. The coin had lain around my coin cleaning area for months until I noticed the coin for the first time today. I should rephrase and state that I really “saw” the coin for the first time today.

I was struck by the gentle and very feminine contraposto of the figure on the reverse. What a wonderful work of art. What a lovely piece of sculpture, rendered by an unknown artist hundreds of years ago. How easily we relate to the female figure and we immediately feel a kindred spirit with that ancient artist.

Intuitively he/she knew the drapery on her arm was repeated in the curvilinear position of her body. That was not taught then and it is not taught now. One either feels the presence of the repetition of figurative line or one does not. Art is not taught art is our Spirit and transcends the ego. We can only experience.

Many years ago nature intervened and we can only guess at why the coin is broken. It really doesn’t matter. The same curvilinear quality we see in the figure has been repeated in the broken edges of the coin and nature adds a new dimension to the rhythm of the line! All the visual the elements come together and we have a wonderful piece of sculpture and art.

In stark contrast, the obverse provides us with the rectilinear head of Licinius. Bold and not so gentle. We are aware of a strong and dominant personality. We see the countenance of a warrior. His portrait is counter to the poise of the youthful, beautiful and gentle female we see on the reverse.

I am very pleased I wiped this coin clean and I am very happy to have it in my possession. I can enjoy the aesthetic moment until I tire of the coin and then I will pass it on to someone else but only if they enjoy the “Found Quality”.. Thank you and God Bless.. Jerry..

Black And Decker Rotary Versus The Dremel

2008-02-16T17:03:00.003-06:00

Many members in my groups have asked me about a rotary tool. I am sharing the following with the expectation readers will save money and get more for their money. As an ancient coin enthusiast, artist and a sometime handyman, I have concluded the Black and Decker RTX-B I purchased several months ago is heads and tails above the Dremel units in terms of price, performance and power.

The B&D RTX is a 120 volt 2 amp unit with three speeds. The speeds are: 12,000/24,000 and 30,000 RPM. The unit uses all the tool accessories made for Dremel and has a flip lock system for securing the collet while changing accessories. I love this little feature. The B&D unit fits the hand really well and is very comfortable to work with. I can easily hold the unit as I would a pencil, a pocket knife or if I need real leverage I can hold it like a baseball bat.

I own four rotary units and the other three are Dremels. The oldest Dremel is about 35 years old and I can't complain about it. It is powerful and has never given me one moments trouble. I have all the power I need with the older Dremel as with the new B&D unit. I have had the Black and Decker for close to a year and I really like the power it gives me for the money.

I paid under 30 dollars for the unit at WalMart and would buy another.

Then RTX-B comes with a drum sander only. However, there are kits that cost much more and with many more accessories. I think I will rank this one as I would a coin and give it a VF+. Please do yourself a favor and buy the unit I have described. You will thank me. I would love to get feedback from you if you do purchase the B&D. Thank you and God Bless.. Jerry..

New Coin Photography Group Created

2008-02-15T01:29:00.002-06:00

I recently created a new Yahoo group called "CoinPhotography". I have been developing my coin photography skills for at least a couple of years now and still have some distance to go. I think digital coin photography is still in its infancy and I know I need lots of work in this area.

We now have 40 members with 19 members joining during the past week. I welcome each of you to join us. I think this is going to be a great group and I feel really good about things. I know the need is there. Just go through the ancient coins on EBay and take a look at the photos. Most are very weak, indeed, with some exceptions. I am no Ansel Adams but I do know design.

If you are weak as I am please come and learn and if you have good photo skills please join and share with us. One thing for sure, you will be welcomed regardless to skill level. Thank you for reading and I look forward to seeing yo at CP. The URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CoinPhotography God Bless.. Jerry..

Reverses: I Find Them Very Interesting

2008-02-11T23:02:00.000-06:00

I was zapping coins this evening and encountered three reverses in pristine condition. I find coin reverses to be vastly more interesting than obverses. The Obverses on the three coins are equal in clarity. The coin in the center is of particular interest to me visually. There is an "emblem" in the exergue I am not familiar with and I hope someone will share with me what the image is.

Please look to the right of the "DSIS" and you will see what looks like a childlike drawing of a sunrise. Someone will probably tell me this is a very common item on Roman reverses. I am intrigued though. I am a coin cleaner and not an attribitor as most of you know. However, I feel I am getting better. At age 68 I am getting a late start but I am excited about learning.

Look at the Victory left (middle coin) and you will see remarkable detail. In hand I can see muscalature on the neck as well as curls in the hair. I can see each feather, clearly, in the wings. The line beneath the bust is very clear along with the wrinkles in the neckline of what I will call the dress.

Let's toss in a bit of trivia. Who can tell me what is on the obverse? I need for you to tell me what the person is wearing. It should be very easy to describe. A very cheap way to have my coin attributed! Thanks for looking and God Bless.. Jerry..

Electrolysis: The Kindest Method For Cleaning Crusties?

2008-02-11T11:30:00.000-06:00

Please take a look at the accompanying photograph of the Antigonus Gonatus (277-239 BC) and let me know what you think. I saw the crusty coin for sale and thought it had promise. The results speak for themselves. Personally, I think "zapping" is by far the kindest way to clean any encrusted coin. The top left and right photographs depict the coin before zapping and the bottom two obviously depict the zapped coin.

If you would like to learn to "zap" coins please join us at CoinZappers. I would never ask you to quit this wonderful membership to join CZ but I ask that you add us to your repertoire of learning experiences. Each ancient coin group has special qualities and one learns from each group. I love to teach and we will be more than willing to walk you through the zapping process.

You have my personal invitation to join. Simply state that "Jerry asked you to join".. The URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinzappers

The invitation remains open and you will meet some of the kindest members on the web. I look forward to seeing you at CZ! Let me know what you think of the process. Thank you for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

Natural Patination: A Value Scale

2008-02-02T18:01:00.000-06:00

Dear reader I am sharing a photo of three coins I have patinated using my "Natural Patination" process. First I will explain what value is to the artist. Value is the lightness and darkness of an object. Many times value is confused with intensity. Intensity is the brilliance or chromatic strength of an object. We can have a bright red and the brilliance would address the chromatic strength of the object.

Conversely we can have a dark red and we are addressing the lightness and darkness of the object. In this situation we are concerned with the value of the object. Please observe the three coins I have attached to this article. The coin on the left is lighter in value than the middle coin and the coin to the absolute right is darker that the other two coins. I have created a very short value scale moving from light to dark. There are many potential values to the right and left of the scale of the coins.

First of all I was able to add value to the coins by using my Natural Patination process. One can find the article elsewhere in my blog. Next, I am able to halt the patination or toning of the coin by placing the coin in white vinegar at the point I want the coin to remain in terms of value. Obviously, a natural toning will continue to take place as any coin ages. However, we can "lock" a desired value in by applying wax or an acrylic spray to the coin. As long as the coin is not in contact with the natural elements the coin will cease to tone.

If you are interested in the Natural Patination process I developed, please scan my blog and read the article. I will add that patina and patina value is a matter of personal taste. As an artist I deal with values and value choices constantly. As you continue to learn more about the zapping process you will also learn that you have the opportunity to make the same aesthetic choices. I hope this article is beneficial and I hope it helps you as you develop your zapping skills. I always enjoy receiving feedback about my articles.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Important Information About Photo Fluorescents

2008-01-24T15:27:00.000-06:00

This post is especially directed to those who have been following my coin photo teaching. The bulbs I have been recommending from Wal-Marts are no longer being carried by my local store and I assume that is true of all stores. The bulb I speak of is the "Lights of America" Sunlight fluorescent bulb. I have gotten very good results with the bulb but again it is no longer available where I live.

Wal-Mart now carries a GE fluorescent that plays havoc with the color balance on my Fuji S5000 and I assume that would be true of other digital cameras. I could not find a GE daylight bulb at Wal-Mart. However, I bought one of the bulbs and found I had wasted my five bucks! I have busied myself looking for an alternative source and I have found a bulb I like very much. After trying Lowe's and other stores I finally found a bulb at Home Depot.

The name and nomenclature of the bulb at Home Depot is as follows: N:VISION Daylight bulb. Be sure you buy the daylight bulb. I like the 14 watt bulb. I won't get into the numbers but suffice it to say the daylight bulb is as color balanced as any bulb I have bought off the shelf. The bulbs sells for around five dollars. I am now using two lights and I love the lower wattage. I don't get as much glare from my silver coins.

I am still working with my coin photography and I think things improve each day. I Have built a few photo tents but I like placing my white material right on the heads of my aluminum reflector lights. Please take a look at the accompanying photo. I am still not where I would like to be with photographs of my silver. If you find balanced daylight bulbs elsewhere please share with us. The pro photo bulbs are pricey and I think when you have balance you have balance. I think these N:VISION bulbs could very well be called photo balanced.

One other thing. I set up the new bulbs and set my camera to a daylight setting and got the same results I would have gotten from shooting outdoors on a nice clear day. I plan to talk with the people at Wal-Mart in Arkansas and see if they will be stocking the daylight bulbs. I can't imagine GE not making a balanced fluorescent.. thanks for reading and I hope this information helps.. God Bless.. Jerry.. PS: I need help with attributing the posted coin..

Coin Photography: Size And Placement

2008-01-19T17:42:00.000-06:00

A very important ingredient in ancient coin photography is size and placement. Placement pretty much speaks for itself. I think we will agree that a centered coin looks best in a coin photograph. I will address the sizing for the most part. Please observe the photograph above as a reference point. I have three separate photographs of the same coin. I created a different negative space for each coin so we can tell one from the other.

Look at the coin on the left. I have purposely left too much empty space to illustrate how the coin is lost in such a large negative area. Please use a sheet of paper to cover the other two coins on your monitor while observing each coin and as we go through the steps. We are visually uncomfortable as we view this image. I often see coin photographs much wore than the one I am using for this illustrative purpose.

We now move to the center coin. What is wrong with the photograph? Obviously I have cropped the coin until we feel uncomfortable with the photo. Why? I think it is like trying to fit the 300 pound man in a child's chair. It is cramped and does not work visually. Intuitively we seek visual relief from this photo. If it was a painting the same principle would apply.

Now, let's take a look at the composition on the right. Ahh, just right! Why? Because we "feel" it is right. We know we have something that is visually comfortable in terms of the design elements we have at our disposal. There is a "balance" between the positive and negative elements. I hope this is a meaningful presentation for each of you and I would like your feedback.. Thanks for reading and I am open to constructive criticism.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Ancient Coins, Photography And Texture

2008-01-18T12:22:00.000-06:00

I am using the coin photograph above to illustrate how texture can be used to effectively enhance our photos. I have taken the exercise to an almost absurd level in an effort to illustrate my principle. Please look at the photo on the left and you immediately see how the negative space (the background) competes for visual recognition with our central subject matter which is the coin. I have chosen a negative area that is not very subtle to demonstrate how the eye desires relief from the complexity of the overall composition.

Now, choose a piece of paper and block-out the highly textured left side of the photo by holding the paper in the proper location on your monitor. Your eye feels immediate relief from the complexity of the composition as it rests on the non-textured right photo. With the textured photo there is conflict and with the non-textured photo the eye finds the calm it seeks and desires.

There is visual conflict even if one uses a heavily textured fabric such as burlap or cotton duck. Also observe that I have used a cool color with a smooth surface for the negative space on the right.

Please try this exercise on your photos and you will get much better results as you learn and apply these simple principles. Please let me know if this information is meaningful to you and if so, please bookmark. Thank you and God Bless.. Jerry..

Coin Cleaners: The Stiffest Brush Of All!

2008-01-11T11:32:00.000-06:00

I was wandering the aisles of WalMart and stumbled across the stiffest plastic brush I have ever seen. The bristles are plastic so they should not harm your coin and the brush is a great size. See the accompanying photo above. The overall length of the brush is 7" and the brush head is 2 and 3/8" in length. The bristles measure 3/4" in width.

I have never seen a plastic brush this stiff. The item is called a "Grout Brush" and as I indicated I found it at WalMart. The price is .97 cents. It is large and very comfortable to hold. Please rush out, buy one and share your opinions with us. Thanks for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

See Coin Below: Will A Zap Clean The Coin?

2008-01-09T18:36:00.000-06:00

I bought the coin pictured above and took a chance that it might clean up well. I received the coin in the mail today and thought it would be a good coin to use for a demo zap. Please click on the following URL and see the cleanup results: http://tinyurl.com/2azx5x

The coin is a Macedon Antigonus Gonatas 277-234 BC and possesses the kind of character I love to find in a coin. I am quite pleased with the results. The coin has a light texture but it has wonderful detail. The coin would have been very difficult to salvage using any techniques other than zapping. If you like the results and would like to learn to zap please join us at CoinZappers. The URL is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinzappers You will encounter some of the kindest members on the net at CZ and we are willing to walk you through each stage of the process. Just say Jerry sent you. thank you for looking and God Bless.. Jerry..

Aesthetics In A Malformed Ancient Coin

2008-01-03T14:33:00.000-06:00

I was about to stop zapping the little coin you see above since I had other and more exciting coins in the "soup." I took one final look at the coin and began nudging the encrustation with my now famous Bamboo Tool. Suddenly I experienced that "aesthetic moment" I sometimes write about. What a little gem! What a beauty!

It makes no difference that the little coin is misshapen and malformed. We often overlook the beauty in our daily lives. The flash of a redbird flying by or the colors of the leaves as they change. I had almost done the same with this beautiful coin. This tiny coin contains all the elements and principles needed to make it a work of art. It is indeed art. It is a tiny piece of sculpture.

Enough said. I hope you can relate to what I am trying to express. If so, please let me know. Thank you for reading and God Bless.. Jerry..

Zappers: A Great Cleaner For Your Coins

2007-12-31T14:22:00.000-06:00

Toothpaste and a toothbrush make an excellent cleaning combination for touching up your zapped coins. Be sure and purchase the cheaper brands of toothpaste that contains a very fine pumice. Some toothpastes are devoid of pumice. I don't know if one can still buy the canned toothpaste powder but I know it would be excellent for finishing a coin.

In addition, I don't know how one can be sure the toothpaste has a fine pumice but there are still inexpensive brands with the pumice. Perhaps one of our resident chemists will be able to tell us what the pumice ingredient is. I think Dollar Stores would be an excellent source for the cheaper brands.

As for the toothbrush, I like the stiff nylon brush but they are very hard to find. I think the larger "false teeth" brushes are much stiffer. Almost all dentists recommend the soft bristle. One can clip about half the bristles off and get better cleaning results. The shorter bristles make for a stiffer brush. Be sure and give this exercise a try. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Please send feedback and please bookmark my blog.. God Bless.. Jerry..

A Zapped Tiberius With Lots Of Character

2007-12-16T00:23:00.000-06:00

I recently bought a bargain Tiberius from a friend of mine at Common Bronze during a sale they were having. I was very pleased with the coin but Tony, my friend, told me the coin needed more cleaning. After living with the coin for a few hours I decided to heed Tony's advice and stuck the coin in my zapper.

I am quite pleased with the results and I like the character of the coin very much. I think the obverse portrait is great. The coin after being subjected to electrolysis is pictured above. I have a photograph of the obverse before the coin was cleaned. The "before" photograph was pretty much an after though but I am pleased I have it. I think the before and after demonstrates well what one can do using electrolysis. Please click on the following URL to view the before photo: http://tinyurl.com/2cuemt Again, contrast the before with the after you see above.

I repeat as I do on most occassions that I believe electrolysis is the kindest way to clean a coin. I can only imagine what hard tools would have done to this beauty. I used my zapper and my Bamboo stick to clean the coin and would not touch it with anything harder. I also mention that the coin is a bit bright so I am using my Natural Patination process to tone the coin. It should be sufficiently darker in a few days. I will then dip the coin in white vinegar and the coin will be "fixed" as one would fix a photograph. A bit of wax and the coin should remain in great condition.

I extend an open invitation to you to join us at CoinZappers and learn the techniques we teach. We have a great membership as you do here and many of your fellow members are members of CZ. The URL to our group is as follows and just say Jerry invited me: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinzappers Thank you for reading and I enjoy your input. Please let me know if you want to see the coin after I have finished toning using my Natural Patination process.. God Bless.. Jerry..

One Of My Favorite Anodes

2007-12-12T16:58:00.000-06:00

I hope the following illustration I have created will help all you new zappers. In fact, I still consider this to be one of the best anodes I have created for anyone engaging in electrolysis. Please click on the following URL and take a look: http://tinyurl.com/39xu2y The upsides to this anode is that it is easy to make and it works so well. The downside is that it does pick up crust from the encrusted coins and the anode will need to be cleaned periodically.

I have solved the problem by having more than one of the anodes on hand. I can simply lift the "dirty" one from the solution and replace with a clean one. I try to keep at least two clean. The best I recall, one can clean at least a hundred coins before cleaning the anode with soapy water and a good stiff brush. Of course the degree of crust on the coins dictates the cleaning intervals.

If you are not engaged in the Joy of Cleaning Crusties with electrolysis, I invite you to join us at CoinZappers. We have made tremendous strides and are getting wonderful results. I extend an open invitation to all. Our URL to CoinZappers is as follows: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coinzappers Please join us and if you have any questions you need answered about the process simply ask your question and send me your e-mail address. We have put to bed the old stigmas attached to cleaning with electrolysis. However, if you have heard any negatives I will enlighten you and and I will be as honest as I can be.

I am attaching a couple of URL's of coins I have cleaned using my zapping techniques. Please click on the following: http://tinyurl.com/2cg8cz I am sending another: http://tinyurl.com/33hwnm And one more: http://tinyurl.com/222vno Thank you for looking and I do hope you will join us. I am teaching others about this exciting technique every day.. God Bless.. Jerry..

Should I Lighten The Patina On My Alex?

2007-12-08T15:06:00.000-06:00

Please take a look at the coin above. It is an Alexander the Great (III) AR drachm I recently acquired. I love these particular coins but I am not sure the coin is too dark for my taste. Consequently, I am asking my readers for feedback. What do you think? Should the coin be lighter in value or should I leave the "natural" patina as is?

As an aside, I am working on my silver coin photography and I invite feedback on my photograph. Is the negative space too light? Thanks you for looking and God Bless.. Jerry..

Read The Small Print!

2007-12-05T15:20:00.000-06:00

Be careful what you buy on EBay! In recent months I have won at least three ancient coins on EBay that turned out to be reproductions or replicas. This happened on three different occasions. I only have myself to blame. After receiving the coins and realizing the coins were replicas I checked the EBay site and sure enough, I found the small print.

I should admit the print really was not that small. I check the ads much more carefully now and I have succeeded in the not repeating the same mistake for the past month. I don't know why I would overlook something so obvious. I guess it it simply because I am expecting the coins to be originals. I wonder if this has happened to you guys on at least one occasion. Perhaps this blurb will help prevent you from making one of my mistake.

Thank you for reading and I would like to know if you have done the same or perhaps something worse! God Bless.. Jerry..